稻米萃取物之妝品原料研究開發

本研究以白米 (WR)、糙米 (BR)、高原糙米 (HBR) 及發芽玄米 (GBR) 為原料，利用50 %乙醇加熱回流萃取後測定其粗萃物中類黃酮及總多酚含量，並依國際規範 (ISO 10993-5) 對細胞進行安全性評估，後續再進行抗氧化、抗發炎、美白、促進膠原蛋白增生、吸濕保濕及經皮吸收實驗來判定四種稻米萃取物未來適合開發的領域。四種稻米萃取物中又以GBR的類黃酮與總多酚含量最高。對RAW264.7、CCD966-SK、B16F10及NIH3T3進行MTT細胞安全性測試，四種萃取物在濃度250 μg/mL時均無細胞毒性。綜合清除DPPH自由基及抑制細胞內ROS生成之實驗結果顯示，250 μg/mL的GBR在抗氧化上有最好的效果。抗發炎實驗以測定NO、IL-6、TNF-α、iNOS和COX-2的表現量比較四種稻米萃取物的抗發炎效果，其中350 μg/mL WR的效果最佳。而470.86 μg/mL GBR有顯著增加細胞的總膠原蛋白及羥脯胺酸。美白實驗中，250 μg/mL WR在清除細胞內黑色素及抑制酪氨酸酶上有最佳的效果。在高相對濕度 (84 %)，HBR的吸濕保濕效果最好。四種稻米萃取物經皮吸收的皮膚累積穿透量也隨著時間的增加逐漸上升。綜上所述，GBR具有開發抗氧化與膠原蛋白美妝生技產品之潛能；WR則具有開發抗發炎及美白生技產品之優勢；HBR具有開保濕生技產品之潛力。

關鍵字

稻米；抗氧化；抗發炎；膠原蛋白；美白；吸濕保濕；經皮吸收

並列摘要

The aim of this study is to compare the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, whitening, boost collagen in cell, moisture absorption, moisture retention and percutaneous absorption effects among four types of rice. For this purpose, white rice (WR), brown rice (BR), authentic Bario brown rice (HBR) and germinated brown rice (GBR) were extracted with 50 % ethanol by heating reflux. The flavonoid contents, total phenols in the extracts, and safety were examinated according to international standards (ISO 10993-5) for evaluation of properties. The RAW264.7, CCD966-SK, B16F10 and NIH3T3 cells were used for the purposes. The toxicity of four rice extracts were then indicated by MTT assay. The antioxidation, anti-inflammation, whitening, increase collagen, moisture absorption, moisture retention and transdermal absorption ability of the four rice extracts were carried out in this study. The results demonstrated that GBR has the highest content of flavonoids and total polyphenols. The MTT assay confirmed that the four extracts have no cytotoxicity at a concentration of 250 μg/mL. Based on the results of scavenging DPPH and free radicals inhibiting the generation of ROS in cells, 250 μg/mL GBR showed the best antioxidant effects. On the other hand, 350 μg/mL WR showed the best anti-inflammatory actions through the decrease expressions of NO, IL-6, TNF-α, iNOS and COX-2. The 470.86 μg/mL GBR significantly increases the total collagen and hydroxyproline of the CCD-966SK cell. 250 μg/mL WR strongly removed melanin in cells and inhibited tyrosinase activity. Whereas, HBR has the best moisture absorption and retention effect. The cumulative skin penetration of the four rice extracts through the skin is gradually increased with time. In conclusion, our data suggest that GBR can be developed in antioxidant and collagen beauty products; WR is potential in anti-inflammatory and whitening products, and HBR is promising for moisturizing products.