掐絲工藝應用在葉脈造形胸針之創作研究

Research of Crafting Technique to the Filigreed Leaf Brooch

陳苡芯(Y i-H sin, Chen)

指導教授 ： 李貴連

國立臺中科技大學/設計學院/商業設計系碩士班/碩士(2020年)

摘要

探討胸針首飾的起源與發展得知，金工工藝與當時社會文化有著極大的關聯，使金工首飾在歷史人文發展中成為重要依據，掐絲工藝是傳統藝術，為重要的文化資產，因製作耗費時間成本極高而漸漸被遺忘。本設計創作研究擬結合葉脈進行精密電鑄實驗，將掐絲工藝技法融入當代文化與設計創新，以真實葉脈電鑄其紋理連結中國古典文學意涵，賦予金工胸針作品新的風貌。本研究以中國古典文學曹植《洛神賦》，進行文本分析，透過「意象解碼」、「符號化編碼」轉化造形，結合傳統工藝與東方文化，創新之胸針首飾。提供後續金工首飾創作者作為設計參考。本設計創作研究結論如下：

1. 掐絲工藝文化提取元素經由轉化，擬研究精密電鑄方法在真實葉脈上施作的結果，可以做為掐絲工藝發展新的質感型態。
2. 經研擬使用小型電鑄設備，進行真實葉脈的表面金屬質感處理，實驗結果發現調整基礎銅鑄液後，表面金屬化的質感較為均勻，在時間與電壓都在減少的基礎下，可以達到輕、薄、透金屬表面的需求。
3. 本設計創作研究以《洛神賦》進行文本分析，將其中意境分析歸納為三個主軸，並提取《洛神賦》中十個辭賦意境，進行分析轉化成有機線性造型，結合掐絲工藝技法，以「飄」‧「漂」‧「冉」三個主題元素詮釋《洛神賦》中曹植與洛神在洛水河畔的愛情故事，以二十四件金工胸針作品呈現。

關鍵詞：掐絲工藝、電鑄、葉脈、胸針、洛神賦

關鍵字

掐絲工藝 ； 電鑄 ； 葉脈 ； 胸針 ； 洛神賦

並列摘要

According to the history of the brooch jewelry, the design of the goldsmith can be related to the background of the culture and the time. The jewelry plays an important role in the development of human history. The art of the filigree is a decent and delicate technique in culture. However, because it always cost time and resources, the art of the filigree has been gradually lost. In this research, I do an experiment of the creation for the leaf brooch through the electroforming technique. With the observation of the venation, I also consult the image of the leaves in the famous classical Chinese literature— Luo Shen Fu, which is made by Cao Zhi in the Three Kingdoms period of China. Therefore, based on the concepts of the literature, I took a close look of Luo Shen Fu and through the literature analytical methods of the culture studies, such as the decoding and the encoding, I innovated a new style of brooch jewelry which involves the traditional filigree technique and the oriental elements.
The innovation of the research can be concluded in the following. First, through the techniques of the electroforming on the authentic venation, the texture and the pattern of the leaves provide a new style of the art for the filigree. Second, to produce the delicate and transparent surface of the jewelry, with the control of the cooper liquid, time and voltage, the electroforming equipment offers a great effort on the simulation of the venation. Finally, based on the anesthetics of the Classical Chinese literature Luo Shen Fu, the image of “sway”, “float” and “gradually” provides divine elements for the art of the filigree. In this research, I employed twenty-four pieces of jewelry to interpret the romance in Cao Zhi’s Luo Shen Fu.
In a nutshell, the research is an innovation of the art of the filigree. Through the electroforming techniques, the images of the venation are presented in the brooch. With the aesthetics of the Classical Chinese literature, the oriental concepts and elements are perfectly interpreted on the jewelry.

Keywords: the techniques of the filigree, the electroforming, venation, brooch, Luo Shen Fu

並列關鍵字

the techniques of the filigree ； the electroforming ； venation ； brooch ； Luo Shen Fu

參考文獻

參考文獻

中文專書

王志健（1974）。文學論。正中書局：臺北。

王受之（2000）。世界現代平面設計。藝術家：臺北。

王梅珍、陳國珍、曾永玲（2014）。煉金術-當代金工複合媒材創作藝術展。南投：草屯。