清代服飾之圖紋元素應用於現代設計之研究

中國歷代服飾係以漢族固有的傳統文化為主體，並不斷吸收.融合其他民族的特色，進而繼承、發展與創新。到了清代，不僅為中國古代服飾增添了新的變化，也注入了新的活力，使服飾的發展進入了一個新的境界。因此本研究謹先著手了解清代服飾所表現出「隱性」與「顯性」的元素，再就其中的圖紋元素進行分析探討，並從中探索、激發設計靈感，期望能運用在各類產品的領域中。綜觀中國歷代服飾的演變，均有其獨有的特色，但滿清在中原建立清王朝後，所產生變化最多，對爾後服飾發展影響也最深遠。而其促成其演變的原因，主要在於由族群意識的高壓到融合和西方文化的入侵到促變。因此，在改革過程中，可以清楚的看到清代服飾既沿襲明代漢族的典型，同時又兼具滿族的民族風格，並且吸收了西方的服飾藝術，可說是中國歷代服飾中最精巧細緻的朝代。在資料的整理與歸納中，可以看到清代服飾圖紋極具豐富性、多變性，但亦融合有不變的傳統思想，「吉祥」的意念又為其主要精神及意義，顯示圖紋的藝術在滿足人們追求無形幸福憧憬與有形物質需求，亦為現代設計提供廣闊的思考空間。探討清代服飾圖紋元素之設計研究的同時，逐步進行概念之應用設計。首先以清代配飾及鞋履為主體，結合現代流行產品之技術，設計可攜式之多媒體播放裝置與復古鞋樣三款等設計並分別參加「2005 光寶創新獎」以及「2005全球鞋樣/手提包創新設計競賽」，其中後者榮獲銀牌獎。另再綜合清代服裝的圖紋運用特色，結合現代服裝的流行趨勢，融合於四款服裝產品的設計。整篇論文的重點，除探討清代服飾的演化與特色外，主要強調在服裝設計過程中，其概念的解析與轉化，使能充分發揮於現代服裝設計。對於專業設計之人員，本研究希望能作為一個突顯文化設計的引子，共同結合現代設計的靈感，並將其精神內涵、文化價值和藝術風格融合於現代時尚與設計中。

關鍵字

中國清代服飾、圖紋、產品設計

並列摘要

The ethnic Han cultural tradition had been the dominant factor in Chinese costume throughout its long history. Notwithstanding that, Chinese costume managed to assimilate features from other races, developing and evolving all the time. By the Ch’ing Dynasty period, further changes were introduced by the ruling Manchu race, injecting fresh ideas into the Chinese costume and in the process bringing it to a new level. As such this research will begin by understanding the “latent” and “apparent” elements in Ch’ing period dresses, followed by an analysis and discussion about the motifs as an element, through which creative inspiration may be garnered so as to be applied to products in various fields. Each dynasty in Chinese history had had some indelible and unique influence in Chinese costume, but the changes instituted by the Manchus following their establishment of Ch’ing rule were the most drastic and long-lasting in impact. The changes were initially as a result of the Manchu’s desire to assert their authority over the ethnic Hans, and later, due to the encroachment of western culture. Hence, one can see in Ch’ing period costume classical elements of Han dresses during the Ming period, but at the same time, the ethnic style of the Manchu race, incorporated with western craftsmanship. Thus it can be said that the Ch’ing dynasty produces arguably the finest costumes among all of China’s dynasties. Throughout the course of compilation and collation of the materials, it was apparent that Ch’ing period motifs were abundant in quantity and variations. Yet consistently incorporated in them were certain traditional ideas. Foremost among them was the concept of “fortune”, a reflection of the people’s desire for the intangible prosperity as well as material needs. This has in turn provided modern designs with a remarkably wide scope of imagination. At the same time as researching into the design elements of Ch’ing costume motifs, plans were also under way to apply the concepts into modern designs. First of all Ch’ing ornaments and accessories and shoes served as models for the design, using modern design tools, of three items including the portable multimedia broadcast device and shoes with nostalgia as the theme. They were submitted, respectively, to the Lite-On Awards 2005 and the International Creative Footwear and Bags Design Awards 2005, with the entry in the latter competition admitted for final selection. Furthermore, four fashion designs are created, combining the use of Ch’ing motifs with modern fahsion trends. Apart from exploring the evolution and characteristics of Ch’ing costume, this paper also focus on the interpretation and modification of Ch’ing concepts during fashion design process, so that it can be fully embraced in the design of modern fashion. For the professional designer, this research hopes to establish the framework for cultural design that will inspire modern designs, and through which the spiritual essence, cultural values and artistic styles may be assimilated into modern fashion and designs.