天然性染料對媒染劑染著天然纖維染色變化之研究

台灣在紡織化工染整業之環境中，隨處可見合成染料染色過程，易造成環境污染的問題，在全球綠色環保的影響之下，環保意識的提升以及國人非常注重身體的健康，因而天然染料又再度興起關注，因此更值得國人加以深入的探討。本研究以天然性植物染料，以洋蔥皮與蘇木為染材，進而萃取出其天然色素，改變天然性染料染著時間，針對棉與蠶絲纖維進行染色，檢測其主要成份之元素分析儀(EA)、色彩變化以及染色堅牢度(如耐水洗及耐摩擦等性質)之測試分析，再經由不同媒染劑處理後，分別檢測上色程度、耐水洗及耐摩擦堅牢度之變化情形。利用洋蔥皮及蘇木所萃取染液對棉與蠶絲纖維進行染色，綜合以上各項實驗，獲得如下數點結論： 1.洋蔥皮萃取染料染著棉與蠶絲纖維媒染處理後的色彩變化，尤其在染棉纖維3%濃度時，特別是加入硫酸亞鐵色差值最大，色差值(K/S)值為11.294，其色彩偏向深墨綠色系；在蠶絲纖維3%濃度時，色差值(K/S)值為9.980，其色彩偏向墨綠色系。 2.蘇木萃取染料染著棉與蠶絲纖維媒染處理後的色彩變化，在染棉纖維3%濃度時，特別是以醋酸銅色差值最大，色差值(K/S)值為23.540，其色彩偏向紫灰色系；在蠶絲纖維3%濃度時，硫酸亞鐵色差值最大，色差值(K/S)值為13.954，其色彩偏向深紫色系。 3.洋蔥皮萃取染料染著棉與蠶絲纖維媒染處理後，耐水洗堅牢度方面，以使用硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑，由以不同時間對棉與蠶絲纖維皆維持在3-4級以上；耐摩擦堅牢度方面，棉與蠶絲纖維經由不同染色時間30分鐘增加至45分鐘其耐摩擦堅牢度仍不受影響約在4級。 4.蘇木萃取染料染著棉與蠶絲纖維媒染處理後，耐水洗堅牢度方面，以使用硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑，耐水洗堅牢度經30-90分鐘皆維持在3-4級以上；另在耐摩擦堅牢度方面，棉與蠶絲纖維隨著染色時間30分鐘增加至45分鐘其耐摩擦堅牢度皆約在4-5級。 5.採用天然性染料染著天然纖維，其染出色彩自然、耐水洗堅牢度、耐摩擦堅牢度，其效果不亞於一般常用化學染料，具有獨特性及兼具殺菌及防蟲之效能，染料植物其內含成分會隨著天然因素如季節、生長地點及氣候等等產生變化，經萃取未純化之色素亦被其他萃取出的化學成份干擾，亦因處理方法之不同，如濃度、萃取液等等而影響其色素顏色之呈現，故從染料植物中提煉出均一且相同之染料，則是一門極大的學問。

關鍵字

天然性染料、天然纖維、媒染劑

並列摘要

In Taiwan, textile Chemicals & dyeing and finishing industry environment, synthesis of dyeing process can be seen everywhere, easy to cause environmental pollution problems, in the global under the influence of green environmental protection, enhancement of environmental awareness and the people attach great importance to health of the body, so natural plant dyes rise again concerns, therefore more worthy the people to be in-depth discussion.This study of natural plant dyes onions and sappan woods to dye, and then extracted from its natural pigment, we changed the value of dye liquor and dyeing time trying to find out each of the suitable treatment of natural plants dyes on cotton and silk fibers, therefore, by the different mordant processed, the changes of color levels were detected、fastness of wash and rubbed were observed. The results that were as follows: 1.Onions were extracted the dye dyeing cotton and silk fibers mordant dyeing color variations after the treatment, in particular, in the cotton fiber concentration of 3%, especially the color difference maximum value of ferrous sulfate, which color difference value (K/S) is 11.294; In the silk fibers concentration of 3%, which color difference value (K/S) is 9.980. 2.Sappan Woods were extracted the dye dyeing cotton and silk fibers mordant dyeing color variations after the treatment, in particular, in the cotton fiber concentration of 3%, especially the color difference maximum value of copper acetate, which color difference value (K/S) is 23.540; In the silk fibers concentration of 3%, which color difference value (K/S) is 13.954. 3.After onions dye dyed cotton and silk fibers mordant treatment, which washing fastness regard tothe use of ferrous sulfate as a mordant washing fastness has been maintained above the level at 3-4.Rubbing fastness, regardless of dyeing cotton and silk fibers as time increases to 45 minutes its fastness to rubbing is not affected at about 4. 4.After Sappan woods dye dyed cotton and silk fibers mordant treatment, which washing fastness regard to the use of ferrous sulfate as a mordant, washing fastness are maintained by more than 30-90 minutes 3-4; another in terms of rubbing fastness, cotton and silk fibers dyed with time it increased to 45 minutes rubbing fastness were about 4-5. 5.The use of natural dyes dyed natural fibers, its dyed with natural colors and washing fastness, rubbing fastness, the effect of no less than the commonly used chemical dyes, are unique and combines the effectiveness of disinfection and pest control.