以消費觀點探討時尚脈絡的發展

時尚熱潮蔓延亞洲，以品牌掛帥的時尚服飾隨著新興市場崛起，締造逐年增長的獲利報酬。在過去以製造業起家的台灣，靠著純熟的技術、優良品質及健全的生產力，對發展自有品牌上具有良好的根基；台灣時裝產業也必須建構自有的時尚品牌，才能發展永續的經營。為此國內對於時尚品牌的研究相當熱門，但研究者察覺國內學者在時尚品牌的研究中，對於奢侈品與時尚的概念相當模糊，並缺乏回顧時尚發展的脈絡，造成研究結果多偏向對眾多的時尚品牌營銷策略採統一的建議。因此，本研究認為釐清奢侈品與時尚的本質將有助於建構時尚品牌的營銷策略。且本研究將以消費觀點探討時尚脈絡的發展，運用歷史研究法與次級資料進行分析。首先本研究採用歷史研究法回顧時尚發展的相關文獻，發現時尚象徵內容會隨著時代變遷，產生變化並影響傳播的方式，造成奢侈品業者必須因應不同消費群體，發展出適當的營運模式。之後根據發現蒐集次級資料，以消費觀點探討各時代的消費群體變遷對時尚發展的影響，並試著與現今時尚品牌發展主軸作出關聯性探討。為此本研究所得出研究發現為，1.大眾消費促成了奢侈品民主化，消費者將時尚作為風格美學的象徵。2.奢侈品必要藉助時尚的象徵，才會有傳播的價值，形成階級區隔。3.奢侈品集團操作風格傳播，決定「正確的品味」。4.平價時尚品牌崛起，改變消費時尚的方式。

關鍵字

消費觀點；脈絡發展；時尚傳播；時尚消費文化；風格象徵

並列摘要

The trend of fashion pervades the whole Asia. Fashion clothing, with brands or big names, creates annually growing profits with the rise of those emerging markets. Taiwan, as a manufacturer in the past, has a solid foundation in developing its own brands with its mature techniques, excellent quality and sound production capability. Taiwan fashion clothing industry must develop its own brands for a sustaining operation. In terms of this, the study on fashion brands is a popular topic. The Author; however, found out concepts on luxury items and fashion are vague in local studies, and in which, there is a lack of the retrospection on the development of the fashion. Consequently, most studies provide homogenous suggestions to the marketing strategies of various fashion brands. This study considers the clarification on the essence of luxury items and fashion would benefit constructing operation and marketing strategies of fashion brands. This study will apply the historical research method and secondary data analysis to explore the development of fashion from the consumption viewpoint. This study applied the historical research method to review literature related to the fashion development at the beginning chapter. It was found that the symbol of fashion altered with changes of times. These changes influenced the communication means and thus business persons in luxury industry must create proper operation modes to adapt themselves into different groups of consumers. Based on the secondary data collected, this study then explored the effects brought by the transitions of consumer groups in different times from the consumption viewpoint and provided relevant arguments on the development of fashion brands in the present. The findings of this work include the following four points. First of all, public consumption forges the democratization of luxury goods. Consumers identify the fashion with the symbol of style and esthetics. Secondly, by means of being the symbol of fashion, luxury items are attached with communication values and thus turn into indexes of class distinction. Thirdly, luxury-goods groups control the style communication and decide the “right taste”. Lastly, the rise of brands of fair prices alters consumption modes on fashion items.