從物質觀、技術與飾身角度詮釋傳統與當代金工之傳承與變革

Inheritance and Innovation of Gold and Silver Metalworking Craft-a Study through Material View, Techniques and Body Decoration

李建緯(Chian-Wei Lee)

《藝術學報》 89期 (2011/10) Pp. 31-59

https://doi.org/10.6793/JNTCA.201110.0040

摘要

在西方近數百年來「重觀念輕勞動」的創作傳統下，不論是在西方傳統學院所定義的美術，或是在當代藝術圈中，應用藝術乃處於邊緣，因此對它的研究便未受到與純藝術同等的關注。在各種應用藝術中，金工藝術更屬小眾。有鑑於此，本文試圖在這片仍待開墾的研究領域中，大膽地將傳統金銀細工與當代金工創作進行跨時空的比較，以期更清楚地透過歷史系脈絡以認識金工藝術創作形式之意涵。透過「物的符號性」、「工藝技術」以及「飾身系譜」三個面向，本文指出「現代性」對現代生活與創作態度雖影響深遠，然而對於金工創作模式所造成的衝擊卻不明顯。特別是在技藝的傳承，以及相信作品是召喚觀者參與作品形式意義建構的概念上，更見傳統金銀細工與當代金工之間的延續性。這份傳承，有極大的成因涉及到金工創作本身強調以身體為創作起點的身體修養觀，讓身體與物的對話成為古今金工創作的連結之點。

關鍵字

金銀細工 ； 當代金工創作 ； 符號 ； 技術 ； 身體裝飾 ； 修養

並列摘要

Because of Western creation tradition ”more concept, less practical application', applied art is marginalized whether from the perspective of fin e art defined by Western academic art tradition or from the point of view of contemporary art. As a result, there is less concern for applied art than pure aesthetics. Among all applied art, metalworking art is the most marginal. Accordingly, this research breaks into unexplored territory of metalworking craft. a study with a bold attempt to analyze through past to present the gold and silver fine metalworking craft . With this historical context, this study hopes to give a more explicit picture about the form and the meaning of metalworking craft. In terms of ”symbolism”, ”crafting” and ”genealogy of body decoration”, this study tends to point out: the modernity invokes an important influence on modern life and art creation attitude, but less obvious impact on how to create a metalwork. Moreover, there is continuity between ancient and modern metalworking art. Because both stress on craft inheritance and believe that the participation of audience contributes to the meaning construction of metal craft work. This continuity deeply results from an emphasis on body-mind philosophy which integrates into metalwork at the beginning of a metalworker's creation, no matter when it comes to ancient or modern metalworking. This perspective of creation philosophy enables a dialogue between body and metalwork as well as a link between ancient and modern metalworking creation.

並列關鍵字

gold and silver metalworking fine craft ； contemporary metalsmithing ； symbolism ； craft ； body decoration ； body-mind philosophy

參考文獻

徐玫瑩 (2009)。〈工藝設計人才培訓與國際交流─國立台南藝術大學應用藝術研究所金工與首飾創作組之經驗〉，台北：國立台灣師範大學文化創藝產學中心