稻景、品質與文化景觀：池上慣行與有機稻業的交織政治

1997年池上「伯朗大道」及週邊景色因咖啡廣告而嶄露頭角，繼之2013年長榮航空廣告更將池上一望無際的稻景推向世界舞臺。池上平原遼闊的稻景，呈現多數媒體、觀光客及旅遊業者對池上的第一印象，儼然為池上的代名詞，更成為農村天然與浪漫想像之集大成。本文從主流稻景印象與農村現場之間的矛盾出發，試圖透過地方稻業的社經脈絡，理解農業景觀所隱喻的文化景觀意涵。1980年代，糧政單位透過良質米產銷政策及開放國內食米自由市場，促進食米消費以解決國內因稻米外銷受阻所延伸的米糧過剩問題。1990年代，即將加入WTO引發的市場威脅，更使「良質米」成為抗衡市場壓力的利器。有機稻米便在此亟欲追求品質以立足自由市場競爭的時代推展開來，使有機米業被理解為與良質米「同樣」具「高品質、競爭力」的象徵。這條由慣行與有機交織的「精緻有機之路」，以振興國內稻米競爭力為中樞，而與以環境永續為核心的另一條有機之路雙軌前行。本文認為理解國內有機之路的腳步，需要回到本土社經脈絡中，關注其與慣行良質米業的交織關係。而臺東池上有機稻米的歷程，恰恰呈現出這條本土的「精緻有機之路」。因此，本研究將針對以下三個面向來掌握池上地方由慣行與有機稻業所交織的品質精進運動與精緻有機之路。首先，80-90年代，在臺灣向國際農糧體系讓步的糧政策略之下，池上在良質米產銷計畫推動過程中的位置與影響。其次，2000年後，在國內外市場競爭壓力下，池上米追求品質與建立制度的過程中，慣行良質米與有機米在治理上的交織關係。最後是2000年開始，池上有機稻米在極力追求米質的時代推展所呈現的面貌。本文將透過上述三者的會遇，及其交織在農村社會脈絡的事實，釐清池上米業近三十多年來的發展歷程中，慣行與有機稻作的交織政治及其鑲嵌在多方社經關係及農村社會等張力下的面貌。

關鍵字

池上；稻景；良質米；有機稻米；文化景觀

並列摘要

In 1997, The Brown Avenue and its surrounding in Chihshang was seen for the commercial of Mr. Brown Coffee.Even more, the ricescape of Chihshang was pushed to the stage of the world by the commercial of EVA Airways in 2013.The ricescape of Chihshang show the first impression of most medias, tourists, and tourism industries. The ricescape is just like a synonym of Chihshang, even more, become an imagination of romantic and natural rural of Taiwan. This article start from the contradiction between imaginations of ricescape and authenticity in rural.Also try to understand meanings of agriculture landscape through a social and economic context of the rice industry in Chihshang. In the 1980s, the food official unit start promoted the consumption of rice in order to solve the excess problem of rice food caused from the obstruction of rice export through the production and marketing policy of good-quality rice and the opening of internal rice free market. The 1990s, market threats caused from WTO, made ‘good-quality rice’ become a weapon to contend the market pressure. Organic Rice was promoted just in this period of quality pursuit in order to survive in the free market competition. Therefore, organic rice was understood in the same significance of high quality and competitiveness from ‘good-quality rice’. This development of organic rice through intertwined politics of conventional and organic rice, which intend to promote internal rice competitiveness, go forward with the organic agriculture which sees sustainable environment as the core in parallel. This article advocates the necessity to grasps the development of organic rice through understand the social and economic context in Taiwan, and notice the intertwined relation between conventional and organic rice industry. The process of organic rice in Chihshang just presented the development of native ‘conventionalizing organic’. Therefore, this research intends to analyze the movement of rice quality upgrade and the trend of conventionalizing organic in three part. First, in the 1980-90s, when Taiwan government made concession to the international food-agricultural system, the position and affect show in the process of ‘good-quality rice’ plan in Chihshang.Second, after 2000, under the domestic and foreign market competition, the intertwined relation of good-quality rice and organic rice present during the process of building quality and system. At last, after 2000, the feature of organic rice promotion show in the period of pursuing high-quality rice. This research intends to clarify the feature of intertwined politics between conventional and organic rice which embedded in rural society.