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食物的文化經濟與農鄉發展:義大利慢食運動及台灣客家飲食運動的個案比較

The Cultural Economy of Food and Agro-rural Development: The Cases of the Italian Slow Food Movement and the Taiwanese Hakka Cuisine Movement

摘要


自1980年代以來,食物通過飲食烹飪所潛隱帶有的社會、政治與美學的特質,在現代社會無堅不摧的快速發展中,逐步重新取得了重構並確立社會文化關係的顯著關鍵地位。本文將以台灣客家飲食的崛起及義大利性慢食運動的茁長此兩個案為例,主要通過文本分析法與文獻資料歷史比較法,詳細探索自1980年代起,環繞食物的社會文化特質所逐步形成的新興文化經濟體制與其所內蘊的社會關係,並進一步闡明對農鄉發展所具有的重要意涵。 自1980年代中期以來,「慢食」(Slow Food)運動在義大利發起推動後得到相當的迴響並迅速擴及全世界。藉著將品味教育安置在一種旨在創造生產者與消費者間彼此相互支持的地方與社會網絡的社會運動中,義大利慢食運動致力於地方食物與傳統烹調的保存。慢食運動明確反對鑲崁在大規模工業化的農業系統所形成的快速化、標準化的食物生產活動,但在支持生態農業政治的同時,慢食運動也提醒不可忽視來自飲食消費所得到的具物質性的社會與美學歡愉。藉著飲食活動背後的複雜社會與文化關係的關注與分析,食物的文化經濟學可以幫助我們辨認且推動多樣化、合乎人文尺度並且使環境得以永續維持的農鄉發展新模式。 約略在同樣的時間脈絡中,隨著台灣族群政治氛圍的轉變、地方鄉土意識的強化、消費資本主義深化與餐飲產品類型愈趨多樣,帶有族群與地方特色的客家飲食在台灣快速崛起風行,並很快成為餐飲業者與消費者食物選擇與體驗的重要選項。進入1990年代後,客家飲食與烹調在客族形象與客庄地方意象的塑造上扮演日益明顯的關鍵角色,並逐步與鄉村地方營造及休閒文化產業結合。在此發展中,客家飲食除維持身體、形塑認同、而且為品味社群畫出邊界外,也形成文化經濟與社會運動的基礎。客家飲食文化在台灣的興起,並非以對抗高度同質化、標準化、資本化且全球化的餐飲文化為基調,反而主要是通過不同型態積極涉入客家飲食文化建構或推動的社會行動者,運用「商品化」、「差異化」、「產業化」、「文化化」這些社會機制,促成客家飲食在最近二十年的台灣社會逐步崛起。

並列摘要


Since the 1980s, with the deterritorialization and time-space compression that comes with advanced modernization, the social, political and aesthetic properties potentially associated with cuisine have come to be immensely significant in modern societies. Against this backdrop, food has gradually become a central focus of socio-cultural forces and gained a key position that reflects socio-cultural power relations. In this paper, the case of the of Slow Food in the context of modern Italy and the rise of Hakka cuisine in the context of modern Taiwan are used as examples to demonstrate how food taste and consumption practices are reconstructed in the society of modern Taiwan and their significance for agro-rural development. The Slow Food movement, originating in Italy and spreading its influence across the globe, has quickly gained worldwide support since the mid 1980s. By embedding taste education in a new social movement aimed at creating and strengthening networks of mutually sustaining social relations between producers and consumers, the Slow Food movement seeks the preservation of local foods and traditional cuisines. The Slow Food movement clearly rejects fast-paced, standardized food production underpinned largely by systems of large-scale industrial agriculture, and instead supports the preservation of local foods and cuisines. While advocating a politics of eco-agriculture, the movement simultaneously advances a claim to material pleasure through food practices. Crucially, a cultural economic analysis of Slow Food movement helps us to identify those new agro-rural development models that can promote diverse, human-scale, and environmentally sustainable forms of socioeconomic life. For a long time, there has not been a ”Hakka cuisine” recognized by most people in Taiwan and that has changed dramatically since the 1980s. With the rise of ethnicity/localism, the deepening of consumer capitalism, the growth of food variety, local foods with Hakka flavors have become an important cultural asset and development device in contemporary Taiwan. In this new framework, Hakka cuisine serves not only to sustain body, shape identity, construct taste community, and but also to form the basis of cultural economy and social movement. The case of the rise and transformation of Taiwan ”Hakka cuisine” in the context of modern consumer culture is used as an example to demonstrate how ethnic food is reconstructed in the society of high modern consumer culture and becomes a form of cultural capital and a device for economic development.

被引用紀錄


邱元儂(2013)。飲食革命正流行—大王菜舖子的認同實踐與文化生產〔碩士論文,淡江大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6846%2fTKU.2013.00282
吳璧君(2015)。以劇場理論探討客家餐廳的創意經營策略與文化體驗設計〔碩士論文,國立交通大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6842%2fNCTU.2015.00377
洪家傑(2014)。家的營造之生活模式-晨捷生活農場個案研究〔碩士論文,中原大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6840%2fcycu201400116
劉澤玲(2010)。客家米食文化在銅鑼傳統飲食中的傳承〔碩士論文,國立高雄餐旅大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6825%2fNKUHT.2010.00021
張瓊月(2015)。地方特色食物的構築與維繫:以關西仙草為例〔碩士論文,國立臺灣大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6342%2fNTU.2015.01845

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