戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化：以金門為例

西元1949年以降，金門從閩南傳統社會變成國共對峙、世界冷戰的前線基地。在長達四十三年的軍事統治期間，除地方社會與空間地景被高度地軍事化外，亦因軍人消費經濟的蓬勃產生了與之相應的微型產業及文化，飲食即為其中之一。為了迎合不同籍貫的駐軍，金門在原有閩南料理的基礎上，發展出了廣東粥、牛肉大餐、麵食（刀削麵、炒泡麵、拌麵）、與金門高粱酒等戰地風味餐。西元1992年，金門解除戰地政務後，這些風味餐進一步發展成地方旅遊的新資源。本文擬以田野調查的史料，探究金門戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化間的關係。首先以實際的案例，討論大量的、長期的駐軍於金門所產生的庶民飲食之演變，以及這些料理在地化的過程。接著，分析金門高粱酒生產的歷史，並從戰地氛圍與男子氣概塑造（modeling manhood）的象徵意義，進一步理解高粱酒是如何受到軍隊的歡迎，以及國家（軍事政權）對於戰地社會飲酒的矛盾情結。最後，進一步分析飲食這種非物質性的戰地遺產，如何成為一種新的地域特色與旅遊產業。

關鍵字

飲食文化史；冷戰遺產；地域文化；金門

並列摘要

From 1949, Quemoy (also called Jinmen or Kinmen) became the battlefront between the warring Nationalists (Kuomintang) and Communists, as well as one of the front lines between Cold War nations. On Quemoy under military rule, social and ideological control suppressed the community power of traditional lineages. But, because many soldiers lived on the island, the economic power of soldiers' consumption practices brought into being many small industries. One of the most famous industries was the local restaurant business. They combined the local cuisine with that of other provinces of mainland China, some of them native places of army soldiers, and then developed some characteristic dishes or beverage, like Cantonese porridge, beef cuisine, many kind of noodles, kaoliang liquor (sorghum liquor) etc. After 1992, this mixed cuisine became a resource for new tourist developments in local society. This paper will survey historical documents and oral materials, and analyze the relationship between battlefield life, soldiers' consumption, and dietary culture on Quemoy. First, I will discuss transformation of the local diet and other localization processes during the military period. Secondly, I will deal with a history of the liquor brewery on Quemoy. Liquor in turn was connected with the symbolic meaning of battlefield bravado and manhood, and kaoliang liquor became a favourite beverage of the army. For the military authorities, the question was how to manage drinking in order to avoid the disorder brought on by excessive drinking. Finally, I point out that the dietary culture of the battlefield became a new type of non-physical heritage in the post-war period, and consider some ways to develop new types of local and tourist industries.