從胭脂水粉到醫學美容：女性臉部管理論述與實踐變遷，1950s-2009

A Social History of the Face Beautiful：The Changing Discourses and Experiences of Women’s Make-up and Skincare in Taiwan, 1950s-2009

蔡郁俐(Yu-Li Tsai)

指導教授 ： 王秀雲

高雄醫學大學/護理學院/性別研究所/碩士(2009年)

https://doi.org/10.6832/KMU.2009.00030

摘要

本研究以歷史方法來探討與分析從1950年代至今，臉部管理（俗稱美容，包括臉部保養、化粧，與皮膚「問題」的處理）論述和女性個人實踐的變遷。既有的詮釋咸認為美容實踐乃是父權結構壓迫女性的表徵，亦有所謂隨女性地位提高，女體所受規訓亦顯增強的立場。本研究從論述與個人實踐兩層次探討，並突破上述的詮釋觀點，指出美容所涉及的議題，除了美貌（身體）規訓之外，還有隨台灣社會歷史變遷而改變意義的美容實踐、美容與醫學專業權力移轉與新身體觀（臉部的知識建構）的形成，以及個別女性自我追求的追尋與增能。
本研究發現，隨著台灣社會經濟結構的轉型、醫療(生物)科技的發展，使人們對臉部管理（身體）的談論方式有所不同，也使臉部管理指導者身份產生轉變（從美容師到皮膚科醫師的加入）、觀看臉部的視角產生轉移（從身體內部到具焦於皮膚細胞），而此都在在影響著女性的美容實踐的內容與方式。從年長女性與年輕女孩的臉部管理實踐，可觀察到時代性差異：從有限度的臉部管理到更嚴密的自我生活型態監督；從將重視身體看作「奢侈」、「虛榮」到視身體為展現自我的畫布；從認定「好皮膚」來自「好身體」到以毛孔等皮膚器官作為判定「好皮膚」的標準。
然藉臉部管理一事，我們亦可發現台灣社會自1950年代以來，女性身體處境的歷史變遷。1987年解嚴後，常民身體所受的規訓權力也由於經濟結構的轉型，資本市場蓬勃發展而有所改變。目前取而代之的，是去政治化（狹義的政治）、商品化的另一種身體規訓。而將女性個人的美容實踐放置在這樣複雜的社會情境下觀看後，亦可察覺美容實踐使女性身體受到規訓的同時，並提供女性個人，成為體現的主體，不再只是物化的身體。

關鍵字

化粧保養 ； 美貌規訓 ； 身體論述 ； 消費文化 ； 美容醫學

並列摘要

Utilizing oral history interviews, by the author, of 40 women (age14-88; 21 of married; most of middle class; some of secretaries, teachers, sellers, housewives, students; Taiwanese) about their ways of caring for the body, including making up and managing skin problems (acne, flecks, and wrinkles), this thesis examines the history of discussion of caring body and beauty practices in Taiwan in the period between the 1950s and the present. I situate women’s changing experiences of caring for their bodies in the context of discourses of caring body, the rise of cosmetic medicine, and how the knowledge of dermatology transformed the ways in which individual women perceived their skin.

Women’s increasingly independent socio-economic status and the improvement of medical technology (biotechnology) in Taiwan are important factors for understanding the transformation of the knowledge of make-up and skin-care and the construction of discourses of caring body. As a result, how women defined “good skin” differed from era to era. In 1950s-1960s, women managed their skin problems in a relatively carefree manner and defined good skin as the outward manifestation of a healthy interior body. Ideally, women were expected to make the pursuit of beauty an overt or great concern. In contrast, by the 1990s, women paid much attention to their skin problems and believed that “good skin” was determined by healthy skin tissues and cells. Presenting themselves as beautiful beings gained much legitimacy. The pursuit of the white skin is one of the lasting continuities in this history.

By analyzing women’s changing experiences of make-up and skin-care we also gain a perspective on the social situation of the female body. The majority of women seemed to have been influenced by the discourses of caring body, and in this way they were subject to the capitalist patriarchal disciplinary forces. However, the discourses of caring body, particularly those in the consumer society since the 1980s, also provided women the stuff of their dreams, in which potential subversive notions could be imagined and perhaps acted out, such as self-realization, independence, and self-worth. They were never just bodies that were made to please the male gaze.

並列關鍵字

make-up and skin-care ； the gendered body ； consumer culture ； medical cosmetology ； social history of beauty

參考文獻

一、 中文書目

（一）網路資料（法規、統計）

立法院法律系統，網址：http://lis.ly.gov.tw/lgcgi/lglaw

行政院衛生署統計，網址：http://www.doh.gov.tw/CHT2006/DM/DM2.aspx?now_fod_list_no=10238&class_no=440&level_no=1

行政院衛生法規檢索系統，網址：http://dohlaw.doh.gov.tw