傳統與創新：芝麻在臺灣養生飲食中的應用

Tradition and Innovation: Application of Sesame Cuisine in Taiwanese Health Diet

陳科均(Ke-Chun Chen)

指導教授 ： 潘江東

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2014年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2014.00019

摘要

芝麻對華人是再熟悉不過的食材，打開每個人的人生閱歷，芝麻幾乎與台灣飲食密不可分，不論藥膳食補或市井小吃皆有其影子，每個時代的飲食方式有所不同，在異國料理與創新烹調手法引進台灣後，創新飲食與傳統料理漸有分庭抗禮之勢。
芝麻傳入中國後，在中醫藥學與道教的不可分割性之下，芝麻同時具有藥用與道教服食兩種用途，隨著時間演進及多元文化融合，民眾對於芝麻的認知仍是以養生與中醫藥膳預防、病後復原等觀念為主。至今，芝麻在台灣民俗飲食中所扮演的角色，一方面是透過節日飲食而賦予不同意含，另一方面則以養生藥膳為主流傳於世。
本研究經由滾雪球抽樣、半結構式訪談與參與觀察法，探討產業四結構：產地農會、製油業者、餐飲業者、消費者，以釐清芝麻在台灣的發展脈絡，與消費者選擇傳統飲食或創新料理的飲食行為。研究發現，業者卅消費者選擇飲食時，多數取決於過去食用經驗，考量的是芝麻養生、健康特性。在創新料理林立之下，青壯年族群消費者普遍接受芝麻創新料理，50歲以上消費者則對芝麻傳統料理採取優先決，可見仍受舊有觀念影響。此外業者研發創新料理目的為迎合消費者喜愛，提高產品能見度及增加話題性而陷入研發盲點，容易產生行銷近視病。隨著餐飲供需法則的改變，使得芝麻傳統料理與芝麻創新料理在市場上並存，提供消費者更多元的選擇。

關鍵字

芝麻 ； 傳統料理 ； 餐飲創新 ； 飲食文化

並列摘要

Sesame has been a familiar ingredient in Chinese diets for thousands of years. It has become an inseparable component in the Taiwanese cuisines not only in snacks but also in the health preserving medicinal dishes in our daily lives. Moreover, cooking styles are different through generations to generations. Furthermore, after the exotic cuisine and innovative ways of cooking are introduced into Taiwanese market, the traditional cuisines are challenging by the innovative food currently.
After sesame was brought into China, it has the inseparable relations with Chinese pharmacology and Taoism. It has two usages, one is for the medicinal purpose and the other is for Taoist food to become god. Whilst developing the integration of multi-cultures, the understandings of sesames for most of the people still stayed on the points of the health, preventive Chinese medicine, convalescence and so on. Nowadays, the sesame plays an important role in Taiwanese Folk diet. On the one hand, it gives different meanings on the food in the festivals. On the other hand, it is mainly used in the tonic food for self-health perception.
The study is conducted by snowball sampling, semi-structured interviews and participant observation so as to explore four structures in the following areas: the farmers’ associations of original planted places, oil industry, catering industry and consumers. In addition, the development of the sesame and the eating behaviors of consumers on traditional and innovative cuisine are also discussed in this paper.
The study concluded that the runners in the catering industry and consumers would choose food based on their previous consumption experiences. They will consider sesame’s healthy characteristics. Since the innovative cuisines are everywhere, compared to the elder consumers, the young groups generally could accept the innovative sesame cuisine. However, the consumers who are above 50years old will still chose the traditional sesame cuisines instead of the innovative food. The phenomenon could be considered that the habits on food consumption is still influenced by the previous experiences. In order to cater the tastes of the customers, operators often emphasize the high visibility of the products and raise the discussion in the market. These marketing strategies create the blind spots and form the marketing myopia on the product inventions.
The improvement of supply and demand rules in catering will develop the ‘coexistence’ of traditional sesame food and innovative sesame cuisine in the market and provides more choice for consumers.

並列關鍵字

sesame ； traditional cuisine ； food innovation ； food cultures.

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