臺灣閩籍女性從背心內衣到手工訂製內衣穿著的經歷與看法之探討－以40位耆老生命史訪談為研究方法

A Study of Fujian Taiwanese's Experience and Opinions on Women's from Undershirt to Custom-made Bustier Wear: using the interviews on 40 elders' life history as research method

葉立誠(Le-Chang Yeh)

《實踐設計學報》 16期 (2022/09) Pp. 24-43

摘要

有關在「臺灣服裝歷史文化」研究的領域中，單就以「內在穿著」議題進行深入的探究，可說是付之闕如。然而，「內在穿著」此一議題，所涉及的不只是單單的一件衣物，它還緊密環扣到「人」、「身體」彼此之間的關係，如果能把這三者一併拿來進行深究，相信必然有助於我們，更進一步挖掘出，服飾穿著背後的真諦與意涵。基於上述概念，本研究以40位臺灣閩籍女性耆老為研究對象，透過訪談過程中所取得的口述內容為基礎，並加以彙整、檢視、判讀。除了因此確立了「背心內衣」、「束胸」與「手工訂製內衣」這三大類別的分野，並就此三大類的發展現象與軌跡逐一探究。最後梳理出，在時代社會的環境之下，臺灣閩南女性個人與群體內著行為模式的轉變。

關鍵字

臺灣女性內著 ； 口述歷史 ； 背心內衣 ； 手工訂製內衣 ； 束胸

並列摘要

When it comes to the topic of ＂Taiwan Clothing History and Culture＂, no researcher has intensively studied ＂Inner Wear＂ up until now. Actually, ＂Inner Wear＂ is not just a piece of clothing. It has much to do with the relationship between ＂Human＂ and ＂Body.＂ If ＂Inner Wear＂, ＂Human＂ and ＂Body＂ are examined at the same time, the research results will be helpful for researchers to identify the true meaning and implications behind the clothing history and culture. This paper invited 40 female Fujian Taiwanese to participate in the research project, using the oral descriptions acquired from interviews as the content for summarization, examination and interpretation. Firstly, the dividing line among three categories - ＂undershirt＂, ＂bundle chest＂ and ＂custom-made bustier＂ - was established. Secondly, three categories were individually discussed with emphasis on the development phenomenon and locus of＂undershirt＂, ＂bundle chest＂ and ＂custom-made bustier＂. Lastly, the individuals and groups' inner wear modes were examined.

並列關鍵字

Taiwanese women's inner wear ； oral history ； undershirt ； custom-made bustier ； bundle chest