通過神饌對比探討日中飲食文化

Comparison and Examination of Japanese-Chinese Eating Culture through a Shinsen

岩井宏實(Hiromi Iwai)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第4屆 (1996/03) Pp. 273-294

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1996.04.14

摘要

在傳至今日的、有關近代以前日本飲食文化的各種資料中，最重要的、能親眼看到的是供神用的酒飯，即神饌。明治政府通過神道國教化政策，在1907（明治40）年制定了「神設祭式行事作法」（神社祭祀儀式方法），使神饌得以規範化。其結果使許多神社的神饌發生了變化，多以生饌（未加工的食物）為主了。儘管如此，還是有不少神社為儘量保持傳統，仍沿用古老的習俗。所以我們今天還能在不少地方看到古典形式的神饌（叫特殊祭祀或特殊神饌）。這些大多是熟饌（經過加工的食物），或是高盛神饌。神饌原本是熟饌，即按各地的飲食習慣，把最重要的食品按自己平時的烹調方法進行加工，然後供神報恩，之後撤下來喫，這叫做神人共食。這些神饌有不少與公元905（延喜5）年制定的「延喜式」裏記載的神饌品目相一致。此外，佛教經朝顯半島從中國傳入日本，八至九世紀時神佛調和思想日益深化，即認為日本的神和佛教的佛本是出自一體。故此，神社與寺院，如春日大社與興福寺、談山神社與妙樂寺等都採取了共融方式，其信仰方式也逐漸地融合在一起了。因而神饌也受到佛供的影響而發生了內容上的變化。這些變化有不少傳於現代，其中最有代表性的是「百味御食」和高盛神饌。通過仔細研究這些神饌的內容，我們可以知道日本從古代到近代的飲食文化情況，並通過細緻觀察各種神饌的內容，如叫唐菓子的油炸食品，以及神饌的擺放形式，如高盛神饌，我們還可以了解中國以及朝顯半島對日本飲食文化的影響。就以上幾點，我想詳細介紹一下日本的神饌，並以此來對比探討日中飲食文化的相互關係。

並列摘要

An offering to Japanese god, that is to say ''shinsen,＂ is the most important thing as a concrete visual experience and as a material which tells us about an aspect of dietary culture before the modern age in Japan. Most of ＂shinsen＂ was raw food then, that is to say ＂seisen.＂ Because it was standardzied with a rule called ＂jinjyasaishikigyojisahou＂ (1907, Meiji40.) and with a policy which respect shin-toas a state religion by Meiji government. But old style ＂shinsen＂ is handed down everywhere. Because a ritual and a festival have a charactor of respecting old style and keeping tradision as much as possible, so that the old style ＂shinsen＂ are called ＂tokusyushinji＂ or ＂tokushushinsen.＂ Most of them are ＂jyukusen＂ (it is heaped up into a shape of a cylinder). ＂Shinsen＂ is originally ＂jyukusen.＂ Man made it from most important food for their dietary life in each area. Then they sacrificed it for thanking god. After the ＂shinsen＂ has been offered to god, it is brought them back to eat, in short, god and people eat same diet together. Besides some of these ＂shinsen＂ are suited to the list of ＂shinsen＂ which was settled for ＂engishiki.＂ And Buddhism was introduced into Japan from China through Korea. But in 8 to 9 century Japanese original thought of ＂Shinbutsu-syugo＂ by which it was considered that Japanese god and Buddha is oridinally same. Was reinforced shin to shrine and buddhist temple, for example KASUGATAISHA and KOFUKUJI, DANZANJINJYA and MY-ORAKUJI carry on together. And both of their faith form were united. Because of ＂shinsen＂ is also infruenced by buddhism offerings and changed its own contents. Now not a few ＂shinsen＂ was handed down with the changed contents. As typical examples, there is ＂hyakumionjiki＂ and ＂takamori. According to examine these contents of ＂shinsen,＂ we can understand the eating culture from ancient times to modern age in Japan. And, in fact, through every kind ＂shinsen＂ such like a fried ＂shinsen＂ called ＂tougashi＂ and the heaped form of ＂shinsen＂ such like ＂takamori shinsen,＂ we can appreciate how China and Korea influenced Japanese eating culture. For the point of view mentioned above, I introduce Japanese ＂shinsen＂ and examine with comparing Japanese and Chinese eating culture.