營養論述與殖民統治：日治時期臺灣的乳品生產與消費

牛乳並非臺灣人的主要食品，臺灣的乳業是在日治時期才正式建立。二十世紀初期臺灣乳業的快速成長，則與十九世紀下半營養學的顯著發展與國際乳業擴張有密切關連。本文探究乳業在臺灣的發軔及影響臺灣民眾乳品消費選擇的因素，並從牛乳消費探討臺灣人如何學習來自西方的營養學知識及其實踐過程，指出這些營養學知識的建構及實踐，並非單純對西方現代性的模仿，而更來自殖民統治與國際乳業的雙重作用，且受殖民統治下階層化營養供給及國際乳業商品宣傳的影響，造就臺灣以煉乳為主的乳品消費型態。本文指出，乳業在臺灣的發軔乃建立在日本對國家利益的牟取之上，營養學則提供了乳業發展與廣告宣傳時堅實的科學基礎，並將牛乳建構為接近藥品的滋養食品，然而，被殖民處境明顯地限制了臺人接觸乳品的機會。臺灣一方面供應廉價的糖予日人製作煉乳，另一方面又是乳品的新興市場，西方與日本煉乳品牌甚且在臺灣有激烈的商業競爭。儘管家境較寬裕的臺灣人也能喝到生乳，但對多數臺人而言，煉乳已是珍貴的滋養品，此種對煉乳的喜好與期待，也建立了日後臺人進一步接受、喜愛牛乳消費的心理基礎。

關鍵字

營養學；臺灣乳業；殖民；乳品消費；煉乳

並列摘要

Milk was barely consumed in Taiwan and the dairy industry was not established until the early 20^(th) century, following the significant advance in nutrition science and the expansion of international dairy business. This paper examines the setup of dairy industry and its consumption in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period, analyzing how Taiwanese people absorbed and practiced the nutrition knowledge developed in ＂the West＂ with the case of dairy consumption. This study shows that the practice of nutrition science was not merely the imitation of the West modernity; rather, it was influenced by the forces of colonialism and transnational dairy enterprises. On the one hand, the dairy industry in Taiwan was founded by the Japanese colonial power aiming to strengthen the Japanese empire as well as to earn commercial profits. Japanese dairy enterprises acquired cheap sugar from Taiwan to produce condensed milk, while Taiwan was also a major market of Japanese condensed milk. On the other hand, the nutrition science approving of the high nutritional values of milk served as the strongest advertisement of dairy products, encouraging its consumption in Taiwan. However, the hierarchy of dairy consumption under the colonial rule was evident. While the fresh milk was mainly consumed by the Japanese, most of the Taiwanese people could only have condensed milk as valuable nutrients during the colonial period. Despite of the limits of acquiring milk, nutrition knowledge and the expectation for dairy products among the Taiwanese both formed the basis of increasing milk consumption in the post-war period.