男士西裝風格意象與其造形構成之對應性研究

The Corresponding Study on Men's Wear Style, Image and Its Formation of Style

洪淑惠(Shu-Hui Hung) ； 莊明振(Ming-Chuen Chuang)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 18卷3期 (2008/07) Pp. 42-52

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.200807.0042

摘要

本研究以服裝社會心理學、符號學、服裝史等之相關理論為依據，先針對服裝及紡織設計界5位資深專家進行訪談、調查紀錄，內容包含男裝的西服近年之流行形式、素材、設計細節，及影響穿著者選擇西裝款式的原因背景等之各種相關經驗值資料作為研究發展參考，設計西裝風格意象之實驗調查。在實驗前，先將專家所提出的西裝風格之造形要素之項目與類目，以田口式品質工程的直交法歸納出16種代表性西裝形式，接著針對設計與非設計背景共164名受測者，進行西裝風格意象的語意（SD法）問卷調查，調查結果透過因子分析與迴歸分析等統計方法，進行感性工學分析與歸納。研究結果獲得西裝風格意象的3個構成因子，及受測者人口變項與西裝風格意象的關聯性因素，並找出西裝風格意象與其造形構成之相關顯著性要件。本研究結論彙整出男裝設計之西裝風格意象的重要設計原則，可作為服裝設計思考與設計學習之輔助應用依據。

關鍵字

西裝風格意象 ； 田口式品質工程 ； 直交法 ； 感性工學 ； SD法

並列摘要

In this study we integrated theories as our evidence through collecting documents that are popular in the fashion & design academic field, such as Psychology of Fashion and Society, Semiotics, History of Cloth, etc. Also, we visited five highly respected experts in the field of fashion and textile design. The interviews, recorded investigations and so forth were conducted to obtain information and valuable experience for reference to study the development of fashion. Before we started the experiment, we used the Orthogonal Method and Taguchi Method Quality Engineering to sort out sixteen types of typical men's wear. Then, we conducted a survey on the words for men's wear style and image (SD Method) using 164 survey candidates with design backgrounds as well as non-design backgrounds. After that, we applied different research methods of the kansei engineering area to our experiment, analyzing and sorting, etc to process the research. The results of this study have obtained three constructing factors of men's wear style, image and the relevant elements between population variables of survey candidates and men's wear style and image. Furthermore, we have found the related significant key factor of men's wear image and its styling. The conclusion of this study put together the important design principles of men's wear style and image for men's wear design. These principles can be used as the auxiliary application method and a reliable reference for fashion design concepts as well as design learning. We hope the consequent study is able to develop a design application database, which will provide design ideas and methods to assist designers in terms of design effectiveness to make their jobs more accurate and less time consuming.

並列關鍵字

Men's wear style and image ； taguchi method quality engineering ； orthogonal method ； kansei engineering ； SD method