展演道地：臺北族裔風味餐廳個案研究

Performing Authenticity: Case Studies of Ethnic Restaurants in Taipei

高郁婷(Yu-ting Kao) ； 王志弘(Chih-hung Wang)

《地理研究》 69期 (2018/11) Pp. 31-60

https://doi.org/10.6234/JGR.201811_(69).0002

摘要

本文探討臺灣主要族群，即原住民族、客家、「外省」、閩南及東南亞新移民等，其族裔風味料理的建構和商業化，以及「道地口味」的展演策略。筆者梳理既有文獻，指出族裔飲食的道地性，既是離散懷鄉的場域，也是文化經濟的口味區位，以及跨域交流的日常節點，分別對應著文化、經濟與社會功能。然而，商業脈絡下族裔風味餐廳展演道地的策略，既強化了特定族裔形象，卻也透露了族裔劃界的不確定性。最後，作者主張進一步考察「道地之為用」，方有助於了解族裔遷徙和食物交流下的複雜飲食地景。

關鍵字

族裔經濟 ； 族群再現 ； 族群認同 ； 遷徙 ； 道地

並列摘要

This paper explores how cuisines emphasizing ethnic flavors and featuring the major ethnic groups in Taiwan are constructed and commercialized, while also discussing the performing strategies people use to sell these ＂authentic flavors.＂ Based on previous studies, the authors show how the authenticity of ethnic food forms arenas of nostalgic diaspora, sites of flavor differentiation, and the everyday nodal points for trans-border exchanges that respectively align with cultural, economic, and societal functions. Still, given the commercial aims of the restaurants selling ethnic cuisines, strategies to perform authenticity tend to strengthen particular ethnic images while revealing that ethnic delineations are not stable. The authors conclude that further research on the ＂use of authenticity＂ is required for people to understand the complicated food landscape gradually formed during ethnic migration and food exchanges.

並列關鍵字

Ethnic Economy ； Ethnic Representation ； Ethnic Identity ； Migration ； Authenticity

參考文獻

王斯（2016）：〈對「正宗菜餚」的反思：基於大理雙廊 2010－2015 年的飲食與變遷調查〉，《中國飲食文化》，12(1)：215-244。【Wang, S. (2016). Arguments on the authentic cuisine: Fieldwork on food culture and social change in Shuanglang, Dali, 2010-2015. Journal of Chinese Dietary Culture, 12(1): 215-244.】

古都食堂（n.d.）：〈關於古都〉，《古都食堂》。http://www.kudutaipei.com/?page_id=27。（2016/9/3瀏覽）【Kudu (n.d.). About Kudu. Kudu. http://www.kudutaipei.com/?page_id=27 (accessed 2016/9/3).】

江柏煒（2013）；〈戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化：以金門為例〉，《中國飲食文化》，9(1)：157-194。【Chiang, B.W. (2013). Battlefield life, soldier's consumption and dietary culture: A case study of Quemoy. Journal of Chinese Dietary Culture, 9(1): 157-194.】

何來美（1992）：〈生活／吃品客家菜。歷代經過多次遷徙，飲食文化特別節儉，嘗先民甘苦的滋味〉，《聯合報》，5 月 4 日，版 31。【He, L.M. (1992). Savouring Hakka cuisines: A food culture featuring frugality given history of migration. United Daily News, May 4, p.31.】

吳比娜（2003）：《ChungShan：臺北市菲律賓外籍勞工社群空間的形成》。臺北：臺灣大學建築與城鄉研究所碩士論文。【Wu, B.N. (2003). ChungShan- The Formation of a Filipino Migrant Workers'' Community Space in Taipei. Master Thesis, the Graduate Institute of Building and Planning, National Taiwan University, Taipei.】