清代皇帝衣飾紋樣造形特徵之研究

族群含括的廣大範圍，從部落到朝代，都可以稱之為民族。在中國歷代的各民族特色中，衣著服飾的紋樣，充分反映族群風格。滿清民族取用各種含有語意的文化符號，經過朝代變遷或族群融合，透過各種文化背景的詮釋，賦予不同的意義。將滿清民族表現於服飾上的紋樣造形進行比較研究，嘗試從衣飾中釐清各朝代間的服飾文化差異，透過調查紋樣在清朝歷代皇帝服飾中變化的情形，被使用的象徵意涵，歸納屬於滿清族群衣飾紋樣的變遷過程。經由差異比較，分析清朝各代皇帝間，衣飾紋樣的造形與使用特徵，建立調查成果。研究發現，清朝具有三波紋樣變動，第一階段是順治與康熙之間；第二階段是雍正與乾隆之間；第三階段是嘉慶與道光之間。紋樣的使用變化上，以乾隆時期變化最劇烈，主要的變化，紋樣是以增加個體的數量為主；排列形態，變化成較具有規則性，以堆疊方式為主。

關鍵字

紋樣造形；視覺設計；清代衣飾

並列摘要

The ethnicity includes a large scope, from a tribe to a dynasty, each of which can be called a nation. In each ethnic special feature of Chinese dynasties, the costume and the patterns adequately reflect the ethnic style. From a variety of images containing the Manchu ethnic semantics as cultural symbols, these patterns give different and deeper symbolic pattern, ethnic institution, a symbol of rank or even racial characteristics through dynastic changes or ethnicity fusion, and the interpretation of various cultural backgrounds. The patterns of costume and other objects also form merging, expressing an ethnicity style by abstract or concrete style, and constitute the nation's cultural symbols of the Qing Dynasty. This study compares the Manchu patterns and the shape on the emperor's costume. The authors attempted to clarify the cultural differences among various dynasties in costume patterns. Through the investigation of ancient royal costumes, the situation changes in the patterns as well as symbolic meanings were analyzed. Further changes are summarized in the process of Manchu ethnic patterns used. The shape features in costume pattern create aggregate data on the form.