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北方歐洲文藝復興時期女性髮型與化妝之研究

The Study of Hair Style and Makeup Development during the Period of Renaissance in Northern Europe

摘要


本研究旨在探討北方歐洲文藝復興時期女性髮型與化妝演變,包含了荷蘭、德國、法國、英國等地,由於宗教改革繪畫藝術的發展,人們以新的活力從事繪畫、雕刻及平面藝術的研究。研究成果如下:當代女性受制神學教會的影響,社會風氣趨向封建保守,一切裝扮與基督神學道德論有關,倡導「化妝是瀆褻的行為」、「被看到頭髮是不道德」等觀念,加上天候寒冷因素,女性頭髮以頭帽遮隱。臉部容貌未施胭脂、眉毛剔除勾勒出微細線條,流行光潔額頭與消瘦的面容為當代象徵。代表性肖像畫作以“聖母”為主,頭部均以毛巾包裹或頭帽遮掩,臉部表情傷感與謙遜,蒼白素淨的皮膚,呈現樸實無華之容貌;僅有貴族反映當代的流行風尚,著長袍頭部披著鑲鏽金線及彩色珠寶精緻的頭巾,身著華麗服裝。

並列摘要


The aim of this study is to discuss the change of female's hair style and makeups during the Renaissance period in Northern Europe including Netherlands, German, France and England. Due to religious reform and painting development, people have conducted studies of painting, sculpture and graphic arts through new vitality. The research results are as: the modern women's dressing is closely related to the moral of Jesus Theology under the influence of church and conservative social culture. Besides, the concepts of ”makeup is a disrespect behavior” and ”it's immoral to uncover the hairs” were initiated. Because of the cold weather, women covered their hair. Thin eyebrows, high-forehead and skinny face with no makeup represent the modern women such as the portrait of goddess. Their heads usually covered with towel or hats and their facial expression is sad and modest. Their white and clear skin presents simple and easy. However, only nobles wear gorgeous costumes to reflect modern fashion trend. They dressed gown and covered their heads with scarf embroidered with golden filament and colorful jewelries.

參考文獻


王文科(2005)。教育研究法。台北:五南出版社。
周東曉(2002)。美德與美麗─文藝復興女性肖像。藝術家。322,246-248。
林貞妤(2001)。平易近人的元素構成真實的美感─從文藝復興時期人文主義與宗教改革論林貞妤的繪畫理念(碩士論文)。國立台灣師範大學美術研究所。
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張心龍(1996)。文藝復興之旅 The Renaissance。台北:雄獅出版社。

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