清代臺灣異於中土奇異的物產與飲食書寫－以詩文爲考察對象

A Study on the Writings of Taiwanese Local Specialties and Diets Different from the Qing Dynasty: Focuses on Poems and Essays

劉麗卿(Li-Ching Liu)

《興大人文學報》 46期 (2011/03) Pp. 31-66

https://doi.org/10.30092/JHCLANCHU.201103.0002

摘要

臺灣位於亞熱帶，物產豐饒，在地之物產與飲食對深居內地之文士與來臺之宦遊者而言，常有異於中土甚至令人深覺奇與異之感。本文以清代詩文為文本，擷取其中對臺灣異於中土奇異之物產與飲食書寫作為探討。嘗試梳理清人詩文中對「海外島民奇製之飲食」、「熱帶島嶼殊異之花草瓜果」、「榛莽蠻地異常之蟲魚鳥獸」三個面向之書寫，並得出宦臺者之所以對臺灣之物產與飲食感覺奇異，乃在原住民與漢人食用之食材與食物製作方法不同，以及在地之草木植物之獨特性，還有因為臺灣熱帶氣候形成花開無節、西瓜成熟季節不同、檳榔兩地吃法有異、波羅蜜等熱帶果物外表之奇形怪狀，至於清代臺灣蠻荒未闢，原始叢林多參天古木，雜草叢生的亂象，也讓宦臺者對臺地蚊蟲蛇獸聞之色變。凡此種種，皆能突顯清代臺灣物產與飲食在地之獨特本色。另外，筆者還進一步審視宦臺者對臺地異於中土奇異物產與飲食之書寫思維，歸納出「考物土之宜，以合乎裁成輔相之道」、「賞觀與考據結合，個人見多識廣之展現」之取向。

關鍵字

飲食文學 ； 台灣古典詩文 ； 台灣宦遊

並列摘要

Because it is located in a subtropical zone, Taiwan had productive and fertile lands. Mainland Chinese literati and officials who came to Taiwan were fascinated by the different local specialties and diets. This study takes poems and essays from the Qing Dynasty as main texts to examine the reactions of the authors toward Taiwanese specialties and diets. There areas are discussed: food preparation methods, the flowers and fruits, and the insects and animals. These three are all distinctive features of the local specialties and diets in Taiwan. In addition, we investigate the thought of writing from the governing officials of Taiwan. Accordingly, we can infer that the officials could take the records as their references of management and also prove they were knowledgeable.

並列關鍵字

diet literature ； Taiwan classical poems and writings ； traveling officials in Taiwan

參考文獻

丁紹儀(1957)。東瀛識略。臺北:臺灣銀行經濟研究室。

王士禎(1997)。分甘餘話。北京:中華書局。

石昌渝(2004)。中國古代小說總目。太原市:山西教育出版。

朱景英(1958)。海東札記。臺北:臺灣銀行經濟研究室。

朱仕玠(1957)。小琉球漫誌。臺北:臺灣銀行經濟研究室。