跨界「混融」－岡山羊肉飲食文化的建構與再現

Cross-bordered Hybrid-creolization: Construction and Re-presentation of Gang-shan Goatmeat Eating Culture

蘇恒安(Heng-An Su)

《中國飲食文化》 9卷1期 (2013/04) Pp. 195-238

摘要

羊肉原非臺灣固有飲食文化的食物品項。羊肉飲食後來之所以被標籤化為高雄岡山獨特的飲食文化，是經過時空的演替混融過程演變而成。傳統上，岡山鄰近一帶盛產的山羊，僅是臺灣人牲禮和冬季進補的重要來源，但羊肉真正廣泛取得在地化認同，卻得遲至光復後空軍基地搬遷至此之後：大量外省人的羊肉消費習性、川／辣味豆瓣醬製造技術，與日／臺／甜味豆瓣醬開發等諸多條件的具備之下，促成羊肉、豆瓣醬兩者的相得益彰所致。於是乎，岡山羊肉米粉、當歸羊肉及羊肉爐等招牌名號，不脛而走。其後，臺灣加入GATT／WTO，開放冷凍羊肉進口，為岡山在地羊肉飲食文化帶來衝擊。2004年，地方政府開始以「岡山羊肉」之名舉辦羊肉主題節慶，藉廚藝競技等展演過程，試圖重新為地方建構品味的襲產傳承與創新意涵。除了就歷史角度的觀察外，本文亦以社會生產的文化空間視野取徑，觀看此一複雜時空交叉的演替混融過程。

關鍵字

羊肉 ； 豆瓣醬 ； 混種 ； 融合 ； 全球化

並列摘要

Eating goatmeat is not normally recognized as part of Taiwan's traditional food culture. Its localization at Gang-shan is a result of tempo-spatial evolutional processes of hybridization and creolization in succession. Traditionally, the Gangshan area produced abundant supplies of goatmeat, and originally this was considered as no more than a cheap source of sacrifices and tonic foods in winter. It was not identified as a local product until the R.O.C Air Force retreated from the mainland and migrated to Ganshan. As a result of this historical transition, mainland provincial goatmeat-eating consumption habits were introduced, and the technology of making spicy Sichuan soy sauce was introduced at the same time. A final factor was the 'hybrid-creolized' development of sweet soy sauce of the Japanese-Taiwanese type. All of these three elements contribute to the localization of Gangshan goatmeat-eating culture by the inseparable pairing of goatmeat and soy sauce. The island-famous goatmeat soup with rice noodle, goatmeat stewed with angelica radix, and goatmeat hotpot developed from this new combination. Local goatmeat foodservice industries, however, face fierce challenges from imports of competitively-priced frozen goatmeat due mainly to Taiwan's increasing globalization. This challenge has prompted the local government and related industries to organize a cooking contest in the form of a goatmeat culture festival, trying to re-contextualize the localized food culture heritage and to develop new ways of cooking and eating goatmeat dishes. Historical investigations aside, this study adopts a culture-spatialized approach to examine the evolution of this hybrid-creolized food culture in Gangshan.

並列關鍵字

goatmeat ； soybean paste ； hybridization ； creolization ； globalization

參考文獻

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