鄉愁味的跨界展演－臺灣薑黃再現

Performance of Nostalgia across Borders:Revival of Turmeric in Taiwan

陳愛玲(Tan Aye Lin)

指導教授 ： 蘇恒安

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2016年)

摘要

薑黃 (Turmeric; Curcuma Longa) 有黃金香料之稱，近年來因抗癌效果在臺灣受到關注，形成一股熱潮。薑黃在原生國─印度與鄰近東南亞國家皆有深厚的文化底蘊，和常民的日常生活飲食息息相關。作者為二十多年前移民來臺的馬來西亞人，因臺灣使用薑黃方式迥異於家鄉而發現有極大的文化認知差異，而有欲了解臺灣日多的東南亞新移民，是否對臺灣薑黃使用產生影響的念頭？因此本研究藉由匯整史料文獻、田野調查與另行建構的薑黃文化展演，探討臺灣近來薑黃熱潮現象，是否會出現由印度原鄉至作者家鄉的薑黃文化擴散，乃至於文化再現之可能性？
研究發現薑黃自清領至日治時期即是臺灣重要的出口經濟作物，從高級黃染絲綢、金紙、中藥方、醃蘿蔔、咖哩粉都可見薑黃的軌跡。直到光復後80年代因農業結構改變導致生產沒落，逐漸由進口薑黃取代，但近十年又有明顯的復耕態勢。結果顯示：從臺灣薑黃熱潮看見民眾因對健康焦慮而提高保健食物的需求；媒體以臺灣人熟悉並喜愛的咖哩做為媒介引入薑黃，以提高接受度；環境適宜使薑黃在地化生產轉趨熱絡；結合在地化入菜與食品加工策略，使薑黃成為每日生活用品。由薑黃文化展演中發現，臺灣人對於印度及東南亞國家使用薑黃方式，表達高度興趣並有動手複製意願，綜此看見另股臺灣薑黃再現的可能性。

關鍵字

薑黃 ； 咖哩 ； 展演 ； 新移民 ； 再現

並列摘要

The turmeric, otherwise known as the “golden spice”, has become widely popular in Taiwan in recent years for its cancer-fighting effects. It is native to India and its neighboring Southeast Asian countries, and has become a staple food ingredient for the people of these regions, as well as part of their cultural heritage. As a Malaysian immigrant who has been residing in Taiwan since more than twenty years ago, the author of this study has noticed a distinct difference between the way the Taiwanese and the Malaysians use turmeric in their food. Thus, this study was inspired by the question: Has the increasing number of Southeast Asian immigrants in Taiwan influenced the usage of turmeric in Taiwan? This paper therefore aims to discuss the recent skyrocketing popularity of turmeric in Taiwan and whether the “Turmeric boom” will, perhaps, spread back to its places of origin in India and Malaysia; the research will include historical documents, field studies and an especially constructed turmeric performance.

This study finds that turmeric was an important export item in Taiwan during the Qing dynasty and the Japanese colonial era. It could be found in high-class yellow-dye silk, gold paper, Chinese medicine prescriptions, pickled radishes and curry powder. The restructuring of the agriculture in the 80's, however, brought about the decline of turmeric farming in Taiwan, and people had to import the golden spice from other countries instead. The turmeric industry was rejuvenated in the recent ten years or so, which shows that the general public has become more aware of health concerns and now looks for healthier foods, with turmeric being a good example. The media has marketed turmeric as a major ingredient in curry, which is something Taiwanese people enjoy and are familiar with. The Taiwanese have now widely accepted and grown to love turmeric, which happens to thrive in Taiwan's agricultural environment, making it a popular spice to grow on the Island. Many have attempted to localize or process the golden spice, so as to better incorporate it into various well-loved Taiwanese dishes. Through the turmeric performance, this study found that the Taiwanese are highly interested in the way India and Southeast Asian countries use turmeric in their dishes, and are more than willing to try these exciting methods themselves. To conclude, currently, the turmeric is indeed undergoing a revival in Taiwan, with a high potential to develop new and creative usages as well.

並列關鍵字

turmeric ； curry ； performance ； new immigrants ； revival

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