原民飲食作為文創產業－臺東達魯瑪克部落的創意／異／藝族群料理

本文聚焦於族群飲食的部落美學，試圖從臺東魯凱族達魯瑪克部落的日常生活飲食切入，連結原住民觀光飲食中創意料理的生產，再進一步討論將族群飲食結合地方觀光，創造出食物經濟及作為文化產業與部落美學展演之可能。本文運用自2008年起在部落的田野飲食經驗，同時結合筆者之一許景秀從2010年1月到2011年11月蹲點的飲食紀錄與訪談，試圖探討族群飲食在達魯瑪克部落的文化社會意涵。本文分析在日常情境中，飲食方式的日常性和其泛文化的交互影響；在觀光情境下，族群飲食又如何結合部落美學，一方面強化族人本身對東魯凱族群的認同，一方面又開啟以飲食料理作為主客之跨文化溝通的理解和地方感的建構，轉化族群飲食作為觀光文化創意產業之可能。

關鍵字

達魯瑪克；族群飲食；部落美學；飲食觀光；文創產業

並列摘要

This paper focuses on the socio-cultural dimensions of indigenous cuisine and cultural industries. It outlines ways of using indigenous cuisine as a cultural industry steeped in wider social, political and economic contexts. In particular, we offer relevant critical observations on the manifestations of everyday food consumption and explore its relationship to tourism development. These food practices are multifaceted, and like any cultural objects are represented in both the tangible and intangible cultural heritage resources of a locale. We argue that indigenous cuisine is an ‘alternative' way of collecting and displaying traditional ecological knowledge through ethnic aestheticism. This paper draws on research from one Taiwanese East coast indigenous community, Taromak of the Rukai people, based on longitudinal fieldwork conducted since 2008. By using participation observation and in-depth interviews, this paper looks at the everyday practices and cultural events of the Rukai people, attending to what food they eat and cook and how it is different from indigenous cuisine that is made for culinary tourism consumption. We argue that indigenous cuisine can play an important role in locally-oriented modes of culinary tourism and this is identified as a point of access to indigenous cultural industries. It also has the potential to enhance cultural identity and make intercultural connections between host and guest.