從「烹飪」到「廚藝」：法國料理藝術化之展望

「廚藝」一詞常見於當代與飲食相關的探討中，而餐廳主廚的角色也時常與藝術家劃上等號。此外，現代藝術也常以食物為主題表達藝術概念。是故本文欲以此為研究範圍，就法國料理主廚所從事的專業性烹飪為主，從藝術觀念演變、烹調技藝進步、美食評論興起、廚師社會地位提升等觀點切入，探討烹飪前進至廚藝、由技藝轉變為藝術之整體過程。主廚是烹飪的執行者，在烹飪被美食評論視為藝術之後，因自主權提高、媒體形象改變等因素逐漸被食評界認定為藝術家，藉由創新的理念及作品進而推升烹飪藝術化的過程。

關鍵字

主廚；廚藝；烹飪；法國美食學；藝術化

並列摘要

＂Culinary art＂ is usually mentioned in food discussions. More and more chefs of restaurant obtain the title of ＂artist.＂ Food could be used in Contemporary Art in order to express artistic concept ideas. This article focuses on professionnel cooking of French Cuisine, practised by chefs of restaurant. We attempt to make explicit, in the perspective of transformation of art definition, progress of cooking techniques, appearance of gastronomy literature and promotion of social position of the (head) cook, the process of development from ＂cooking ＂ to ＂culinary art＂ and from ＂cooking technique＂ to ＂art (aesthetics meaning).＂ Although Chef is important practicer of cooking, he is recognized as ＂artist＂ long time after the recognition of cooking as ＂art＂ by food critics, due to the obtaining of professional autonomy and the changement of media image. Then his creative thinking and innovative works accelerate the process of artification of culinary art.