「食補」到「禁食」：從報刊看戰後臺灣的香肉文化史（1949-2001）

Evolution of Taiwanese Fragrant Meat Culture: from 'Food Therapy' to 'Forbidden Food' (1949-2001)

皮國立(PI Kuo-Li)

《中國飲食文化》 16卷1期 (2020/04) Pp. 55-114

摘要

狗肉俗稱「香肉」，在整個東亞歷史中，多數區域都曾有過食用狗肉的文化，有些國家甚至仍歷久不衰。而在臺灣的情況如何？卻少有正式的歷史研究加以梳理。本文以臺灣的香肉文化史為題，探討臺人食用狗肉的文化起源，如何從1949年之後的興盛，轉而到逐漸衰弱、消失的過程。本文先從漢人「食補」的飲食消費觀點來探討食用狗肉的心態和社會上流行之狀況，以明白其歷史發展梗概。至1980年代後，食用狗肉風氣達於鼎盛，但卻不斷出現禁食狗肉的聲音和實際行動，每到冬季，還是不斷有食用狗肉的新聞，常常成為社會討論的議題。本文續從醫療、衛生到法律等層面，試圖分析公眾言論認為食用狗肉之利弊，並論述當時法律執行之無力與被忽視的專業意見。而真正影響臺人禁食狗肉的原因，其實是國際觀感不佳和動物保護意識之興起、公民團體之自覺，皆給予政府極大的壓力，並促成替代消費品羊肉爐的興盛，取代了原有的食狗風氣。再加上至2001年1月2日，立法院正式三讀通過「動物保護法部分條文修正案」，新修條文明文禁止宰殺或食用已納為寵物的貓、狗，食用狗肉的飲食文化才逐漸在各種社會力量的綜合作用下，逐漸消聲匿跡。

關鍵字

狗肉 ； 食補 ； 動物保護法 ； 飲食 ； 衛生

並列摘要

Dog meat is also known as 'fragrant meat.' Throughout the whole of East Asian history, most regions have had a culture of eating dog meat, and in some countries the culture is long-lasting and continues to this day. What is the situation in Taiwan? There are very few proper historical studies to help us sort this out. The aim of this study is to investigate the history of 'fragrant meat' culture in Taiwan as a means to explore the cultural origins of Taiwanese dog-meat consumption, from its high point after 1949 to its decline and disappearance. The starting point is to explore the mentality connected with dog-meat eating and the current situation in Han Chinese society, from the standpoint of the dietary consumption of 'food supplements,' so as to clarify the outline of its historical development. During the 1980s, the custom of dog-meat eating reached its peak, but calls for the prohibition of eating dog meat, and actual prohibition, have been appearing constantly. Every year when winter comes, news of dog-meat eating would appear, becoming a topic that often elicited public discussion. This study attempts to analyze the advantages and disadvantages of eating dog meat according to public opinion, from the medical, health and legal aspects, and explore weaknesses in law enforcement and the neglect of professional opinion at that time. The reasons that really influenced Taiwanese people's prohibition of dog-meat eating are the poor international outlook and the rise of animal protection consciousness, as well of the consciousness of citizen groups, all of which exerted great pressure on government, and contributed to the popularity of mutton stoves as alternative consumer goods, replacing the original dog-eating custom. Additionally, on January 2, 2001, the Legislative Yuan officially passed an amendment of some provisions in the Animal Protection Law. The new amendment explicitly prohibited slaughtering or eating cats or dogs which had been taken in as pets. The dietary culture of eating dog meat finally faded out under the comprehensive pressure of various social forces.

並列關鍵字

food therapy ； dog meat ； Animal Protection Law ； diet ； hygiene

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