Fashionable Traditional Clothing: Pakaian Adat in Bali

此篇田野報告的草稿完成於2009年秋天，所採用之田野材料主要來自於那年的一月至六月間。那次的田野工作，筆者主要在印尼Bali省首府Denpasar市活動，一部分時間亦在島的東部，一處織布與服飾交易熱絡的市場（Klungkung市場）進行訪談與觀察。在Bali島，不論是在鄉村或都市，幾乎每天都可見到穿著pakaian adat（一般譯為傳統服飾）的Bali島人。資本主義的經濟方式會改變服飾的意義，其中一項改變是，服飾逐漸成為一種表達工具；資本家透過鼓勵流行時尚的建立－一種快速變動的消費體系，服飾成為一種個人風格傳達的表達工具。（Schneider and Weiner 1989：4）然而過往研究者傾向區分「傳統服飾」與「流行服飾」，認為前者是承襲自過往而較為穩定不變的（Entwistle 2000：44－45），但我卻在田野中看見Bali島的pakaian adat也具備流行服飾的特質－有人設計它、舞臺上展示著它、款式推陳出新、人們快速地消費為了建立流行時尚…等。承上，筆者在本文想要論證的是，當代Bali島pakaian adat的消費，展現了當地人對於流行符號的消費；而其中流行符號的生產原因有三：第一，透過Bali島人不斷實踐的宗教生活而產生，使它不同於其他社會中，傳統服飾僅著於特殊時日，可能較易成為一種身分表徵而較少變動。第二，政府長期以來所創造的大型的舞臺／伸展臺、節日／慶典、競賽…等，直接將pakaian adat的流行符號集中傳遞。第三，透過報章等主流媒體的推波助瀾，讓pakaian adat得以成為如同流行時尚般地被大眾討論，「現代感」、「復古風」等等辭彙，都指涉著一種攸關流行訊息的符號，有效地鼓勵了民眾透過pakaian adat去展現個人風格與風采。筆者認為，Bali島的pakaian adat因為這些條件，而發展出具備流行服飾般特質的現象。

關鍵字

峇里島；服飾；流行；傳統

並列摘要

It's quite noticeable that Balinese people clothe themselves in 'traditional clothing' most of the time and nearly all over the places around the island. This fieldwork report was first drafted after my second field study in Bali from January to June of 2009. The material used in this article was basically collected from the capital city, Denpasar, and partly collected from the busy textile and clothing market in eastern Bali, Pasar Klungkung. In the capitalistic world, the meaning of clothing has been changed. One of them is that by encouraging the growth of fashion, a consumption system of high-velocity turnover and endless, ever-changing variation, capitalist entrepreneurs vastly inflated dress and adornment as a domain for expression through cloth (Schneider and Weiner 1989:4). We see researchers tend to differentiate the 'clothing culture' and 'fashionable clothing'. The former refers to traditional clothing, which is generally characterized by its continuity with the past. (Entwistle 2000:44-45) However, this is problematic to me because the Balinese traditional clothing, pakaian adat, definitely contains the characteristics of fashion. During my fieldwork in Bali, I witnessed that Balinese designers worked out lots of custom-made pakaian adat and had models wear and show them on stages or catwalks; the modes of pakaian adat got renewed costantly on the media and market; the younger generation had their eyes on some stylish boys and girls clad in the most stylish pakaian adat on every important occasion. Therefore I assert that pakaian adat, generally is translated into 'traditional clothing' in Bali, has been gone through a similar process which was quoted above and has been formed a fashion-type system of consumption. Now, why pakaian adat of Bali? This is the core question and the main discussion of this article. I'm trying to stress that the consumption of pakaian adat for Balinese is more than consumption of the clothing itself, but the 'fashion symbol' as well. According to the collected material from my field study and my personal experiences of participating special Balinese occasions, I present three reasons about the formation of the 'fashion symbol' in pakaian adat consumption in Balinese society. Firstly, it has been formed through the frequent religious rituals of Balinese people. Due to the dense religious holidays of Bali's Hinduism, Balinese people have to wear pakaian adat constantly; whereas other societies or cultures use their traditional clothing as simply a tool of representing ethnic identity or just a changeless cultural feature. Secondly, the government has been setting up platforms to massively collect and deliver the fashion symbol of pakaian adat, for example, the annual Bali Art Festival has been held since 1978, which is also the biggest traditional clothing/textile competition and exhibtion stage supplied by the government over a long period of time. Thirdly, the mass media have been effectively promoting the public discussions about pakaian adat as something fashionable, and the widely used terms from the media such as 'modern', 'retro'...etc, have been indicating the 'symbol of fashion', which meant clearly that their people should show their own personal style and mode and to be trendy through wearing creatively designed pakaian adat. Thus, I came to the conclusion: pakaian adat in Bali has gained the qualification of being 'fashion'.

並列關鍵字

Bali ； clothing ； fashion ； tradition

國際替代計量

Fashionable Traditional Clothing: Pakaian Adat in Bali

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