時尚品牌電子商務之策略研究－以PRAXES為例

The E-Commerce Strategy of Fashion Brands: An Example from PRAXES

林紫潔(Tzu-Chien Lin) ； 呂清夫(Chihg-Fu Lu) ； 陳建志(Chien-Chih Chen)

《實踐設計學報》 10期 (2016/11) Pp. 510-540

摘要

2009年網際網路進入web 3.0世代，電子商務圍繞著以個人體驗為核心概念的互聯網時代，隨著雲端科技的迅速發展，網路儼然已成為現在人生活中不可或缺甚而賴以為生的虛擬生態圈。2013年德國提出工業4.0概念，利用物聯網和網際網路服務改善生產流程，提昇製造業電腦化、數位化和智能化，節約資源效率全面發展機械自動化的智慧工廠，但是服飾設計製造在最後一道工序的流水線尚無法以機械取代，生產線上仍須依賴大量的人力車工。而台灣服裝產業也從OEM（委託代工）、ODM(設計加工)的發展過程，到目前階段欲發展OBM(建立自有品牌)的轉型時期，品牌/企業開啟另一階段電子商務經營的方向已無可避免，面對新興的全球電子商務市場，以製造端低成本優勢的折扣策略，無法凸顯品牌差異化也非品牌長久經營之道。時尚品牌在電子商務的經營來到進階的層級，探究新銳設計師品牌新興電子商務的經營模式，必須思考整個服裝產業的生態體系的最末端也就是零售模式與消費者之間的關係開始。以產業製造端起源的亞洲零售市場，向來以款式、數量眾多及價格搶市，但長期的經濟成長停滯，面臨快時尚品牌的低價風潮崛起，設計師品牌如何在快時尚品牌中勝出並維持長期優勢？成為品牌經營最大的困難。本研究論文中藉由問卷調查形塑PRAXES品牌消費群像，並以各族群看PRAXES的調查，歸納整理PRAXES品牌的經營策略及電子商務的應用辦法。借鏡美國成功的高端成衣品牌J.Crew從郵購目錄轉型到網路購物的電子商務的實務發展過程，產出PRAXES品牌在電子商務3.0世代的經營面向，圍繞著以使用者體驗為中心概念，加乘品牌的核心競爭力，為時尚品牌電子商務的經營主軸。從品牌官方網站的架構、社群網路平台等資料數位化的多元運用。以及設計師品牌小量生產的高成本生產模式思考，以數位化資料鏈結供應鏈上下游，運用O2O虛實整合的應用操作，提供個性化、小批量、款式多、交期短的快反供應鏈的服飾生產模式，以符合現代虛擬網路的商務生態，節省資源、減少庫存、提高效率的數位化生產為基礎，作為時尚品牌在電子商務經營的實務應用策略。針對J.Crew品牌經營成功的經驗探索，了解市場差異化是經由完整的形塑目標族群的511生活型態而形成風格明顯的品牌文化。經由問卷調查、三級編碼與深入訪談交叉分析結果。喜愛名牌精品的受訪A族群認為PRAXES在用料和質感上需再提昇。喜歡購買設計師品牌的目標B族群，在購買習慣上喜愛凸顯個人特質的獨特風格與PRAXES的定位非常符合，但是PRAXES風格及款式方面需要再向年輕、國際化及和諧的表現上再調整，並大幅提昇社群媒體的操作頻率以及進一步思考媒體曝光操作的面向，宜在學術背景下的PRAXES品牌與其他設計師品牌的做出明顯的市場區隔，顯現出PRAXES的特質，因此在品牌官網、社群網路、及O2O虛實整合的多元電子商務面向上，定位B族群的生活型態為電子商務策略的核心概念，以電子商務多元的經營面向，深耕品牌文化的呈現，在每一個媒體曝光上都能完整呈現獨特的品牌風格。歸納喜愛物超所值，較在意經濟因子的C與D族群的意見，反思PRAXES在商品結構及生產流程上的成本控制，參考工業4.0的智能生產原則，將設計師的工作導入系統性的生產流程，提升工作效率，減少資源的浪費，並改革大量生產才能降低成本的生產模式，尋求能與快時尚品牌對應的競爭力。歸納整理出PRAXES新興品牌在電子商務上經營操作的策略。本研究彙整時尚品牌電子商務經營策略之結論分為二大方向：一．設計師品牌在官方網站與社群媒體的操作策略二．電子商務在供應鏈的應用實務－「快速反應供應鏈」以及以下八點結論：(一)．品牌經營環繞著目標族群的生活型態，並基於目標族群的生活型態上的創新。(二)．以目標族群體驗為核心概念的電子商務策略。(三)．建構供應商合作平台，共同打造快速反應供應鏈。(四)．鏈結社群媒體數據，以「1261」比例的標準化訂單調整生產款式。(五)．以品牌價值為核心，用創意視覺、創新觀點、行銷話題等方式形塑品牌文化。(六)．鏈結PRAXES品牌及設計師學習平台，將設計師學習平台和服飾商品做印象整合。(七)．運用各社群媒體屬性建構品牌多元樣貌。(八)．供應鏈上中下游以O2O線上線下實施虛實整合。

關鍵字

時尚品牌電子商務 ； 使用者體驗要素 ； 快速反應供應鏈 ； 「1261」訂單標準化 ； 社群網路應用 ； O2O虛實整合 ； 時尚產業學習平台 ； 跨領域人才 ； 資源整合

並列摘要

Since 2009, Internet had entered the web 3.0 generation, which is the era that e-commerce is surrounded by personal experience as the core concept of the Internet. With the rapid development of cloud technology, the Internet has become a virtual ecosystem which is necessary, and even what makes people live. In 2013, German proposed the concept of Industry 4.0, using networking and Internet services to improve production processes, making the rate of manufacturing computerization, developed digitalization and intelligence higher, and resource efficiency saving and comprehensively develop automation machinery of wisdom factory. However, fashion design and manufacturing in the last pipeline process could not be replaced by machines, and production lines still rely on a lot of manpower turners. Taiwan garment industry developed from OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), and ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) to the current stage of OBM (Own Branding & Manufacturing), which is the transition period. Brand / corporate cannot avoid opening another stage in the electronic business. The reason is that facing emerging global e- commerce market, manufacturers' discount policy of low-cost advantage cannot highlight the differentiation of brand, and neither is the business' eternal way of management. Fashion brand in the business of e-commerce entered the advanced level. Exploring cutting-edge designer brand new e-commerce business model, companies have to consider the ecosystem to its entire of the garment industry, which begins with the relationship between the consumers and the retail models. In Asian retail markets, which originated from industrial manufacturers, has always been in great demand for the variety of design, quantity and price, but long-term stagnation of economic growth, facing a wave of rapid rise of low-cost fashion brands, how designers' brands can win the fast fashion brands and maintain long-term advantage, they have become the biggest difficulties of brand management. The research paper induce and collate the brand business strategies and e-business application solution of PRAXES through questionnaires about shaping PRAXES', consumer group portrait and survey of how various ethnic groups see PRAXES, Learning from the success of high-end American clothing brand J.Crew, which catalogs transited from mail-order catalogs to e-commerce online shopping, yielding 3.0 PRAXES brand in e- commerce business for generations; it centered on concept of the users' experience and synergistic the core competitiveness of the brand, the fashion brand of e-commerce business became mainstream. It makes use of multiple angles from the structure of the brand's official website and digitized social network platform. Designers' brands from small production of high-cost production model thinking, the use of the digital data link of the supply chain, the use of integrated application operation O2O actual situation, to provide personalized, small quantities, varieties of style, short delivery of rapid reaction Digital production supply chain clothing producing patterns. In order to meet with modern ecological business virtual networks, save resources, reduce inventory and improve efficiency, it based on the practical application of the policy as a fashion brand in e-commerce operations. Exploring from J.Crew's mail-order catalog and e-commerce success stories, market differentiation via a complete lifestyle shaping target groups formed distinct style of brand culture can be understood. It is analyzed the result through questionnaires, interviews and in-depth cross three coding. A group, who loves brand-name goods, responses that PRAXES have to upgrade on its re- use of materials and textures. B group, which like to buy designers' brands, they usually have the purchasing habits of highlighting personal traits and unique style, and meets with PRAXES orientation, but the style and the aspect have to apply more to youth, internationalization and harmony, and significantly enhance the operating frequency of social media and further reflection on the media exposure for the operation. It should be made in an academic context that PRAXES and other designers' brands on market segmentation are clear, showing PRAXES qualities. Therefore, the brand's official website, social group network, and O2O actual situation of e- commerce for the integration of diverse, is to position B group's lifestyle. The core concept of e- commerce strategy, diversified business-oriented e-commerce, deep brand culture presented in each media exposure on can complete presents unique brand of style. Inducing groups C and D, who cares about the value for the economic factors, reflects PRAXES in the commodity structure and production process of cost control. With reference to the principle of industrial intelligent production 4.0, it introduces the designer's job into systematic production processes to improve efficiency, reduce waste of resources, and reform mass production mode in order to reduce the cost of production, seek to correspond with the fast fashion brand competitiveness. Finally, the strategies PRAXES new brand management operations on e-commerce can be collated and analyzed. In this study, the aggregated conclusions are as follows: Business strategies of fashion brand e-commerce Brand management is surrounded by the target groups, and knows their lifestyle well. Put emphasis on the core concept of e-commerce users' experience. Solicit suppliers together to create a rapid response supply chain platform. Aimed at order standardizing, produce according to ＂1261＂ in proportion. Shape the brand culture through the core values of creative vision, innovative ideas, and marketing topics, etc. Link PRAXES and its designers to make impression integration between platform designers and clothing products. Use various social media properties to construct brand's multi appearance. Integrate upstream to downstream of the supply chain to implement the actual situation under O2O online and offline integration.

並列關鍵字

Fashion Brand of E-commerce ； Elements of Users' Experience ； Rapid Response Supply Chain ； ＂1261＂ Standardization of Order ； Social Web Applications ； O2O Marketing ； The Fashion Industry Learning Platform ； Interdisciplinary Talents ； Resources Integration