明清小說文本中「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」詞彙語意之探討

Exploring the Phrase Semantics of ＂Undergarment Covering the Chest and Abdomen＂, ＂Belly Band＂ and ＂Tube Top＂ Stated in the Novels Written in Ming and Ching Dynasties

葉立誠(Le-Chang Yeh)

《實踐設計學報》 15期 (2021/11) Pp. 6-25

摘要

雖然說正史被視為是詮釋中國古代服裝最具份量的史籍文獻，但並非所有「服飾專有名詞」的概念與樣貌，皆能從正史中找到明確可對應的文句，而這種情形，尤其是當涉及到內在服飾的專有名詞時，那就更加的顯著。對於沒有相關正史的史料，可以讓我們清楚理解到中國古代內著服飾名稱的這種現象，轉而朝向文學中小說的文本來尋求解套，似乎是一個可行之道，雖說這種方式是可取的，但許多論述者卻經常只單憑一二則的文句，就倉促為一些「服飾專有名詞」作出定論，也因而造成錯誤的引導及原意上的曲解。研究者有鑑於此，嘗試以大數據的概念作為研究方法，進而提出修正。故，首先設定「兜肚」、「肚兜」、「抹胸」這三個詞彙為研究對象，確立研究的目標與方向，並從大量蒐集到的明、清代兩朝小說中，篩選出符合本次研究的五十一部小說，以此為研究的範圍。經逐一解讀這每一部小說的內容之後，最終提出兩項重要的結論：（一）不論是就一部小說單獨出現「兜肚」、「肚兜」、「抹胸」詞彙中的其一，或是一部小說出現兩詞共用的情形，清朝的小說家在「兜肚」、「肚兜」、「抹胸」詞彙，雖然有一些維持明朝時期用語的概念，但也出現一些用詞上的轉變。（二）在本次研究的五十一部明、清小說，經全文的檢索查閱，精算出「兜肚」一詞出現94次、「肚兜」一詞出現43次，兩詞合計出現了137次。針對這137次用詞內容進行分析，發現「兜肚」一詞有68次、「肚兜」一詞有14次，兩詞共計有82次，在這高達六成的比例，它們被書寫描述的樣貌，都非如今天我們所認知「肚兜」一詞的概念。這也意味，明清時期小說家在書寫「兜肚」或「肚兜」時的用語，當出現在男性成人身上時，它的意思是指：「作為放置物件之用的囊袋，並將其綁在外衣的腰肚間」。簡而言之，「是一種綁在腰肚間的兜包」。此確立了明清時期的小說家，在「肚兜」與「兜肚」用詞上的語意，並非如今日我們所認知，僅僅是作為內著服飾的用語。

關鍵字

研究方法 ； 中華傳統服飾 ； 明清小說 ； 服飾專有名詞 ； 肚兜 ； 兜肚 ； 抹胸

並列摘要

Official history is undoubtedly the most reliable source for researchers to find out how ancient Chinese clothing was interpreted. When it comes to the clothing terminology, however, official history is sometimes unable to provide the terminology related to the concepts and appearance of ancient Chinese clothing, in particular the underwear. After an unsuccessful attempt to search official history for ancient Chinese clothing phrase semantics, the author resorted to literary novels which were seemingly a feasible source. Nevertheless, researchers have to be careful when they search literary novels for clothing phrase semantics. A number of theorists quickly read a few sentences of literary novels and hastily defined their clothing phrase semantics. Unfortunately, their clothing phrase semantics often resulted in misunderstanding and misinterpretation. In an effort to explore the most truthful and accurate clothing phrase semantics, the author searched 51 literary novels written in Ming and Ching Dynasties, using big data method to find out how these three clothing phrases ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂, ＂belly band＂ and ＂tube top＂ were used in both Dynasties. Conclusions are presented as follows: (1) The author noted that in some novels only one of these clothing phrases ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂, ＂belly band＂ and ＂tube top＂ was used, sometimes two were used. In Ching Dynasty, some novelists used these clothing phrases ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂, ＂belly band＂ and ＂tube top＂ in the same way as the novelists in Ming Dynasty did, although they revised the wordings from time to time. (2) After an actuarial calculation, the author noted that ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂ was used 94 times and ＂belly band＂ was used 43 times in the literary novels written in Ming and Ching Dynasties, totaling 137 times. Then, the author analyzed the content where both phrases ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂ and ＂belly band＂ were totally used 137 times. According to the analysis results, this phrase ＂undergarment covering the chest and abdomen＂ was used 68 times and this phrase ＂belly band＂ was used 14 times. Both phrases were used 82 times in total, as much as 60%. In conclusion, the author noted that ＂belly band＂ actually referred to the pouch tied between waist and belly, as opposed to what we know about ＂belly band＂ today.

並列關鍵字

research method ； Chinese traditional garment ； Ming and Qing novels ； garment proper nouns ； Dudou ； Doudu ； Muoxiong