清代章回小說中「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」名詞書寫之初探

A First Glance at the phrases ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂ contained in Qing Dynasty's long novels with epic summaries

葉立誠(Le-Chang Yeh)

《實踐設計學報》 13期 (2019/11) Pp. 30-48

摘要

雖然我們可以很輕易地查詢到清代時期「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個名詞的一些相關說法，但如果我們將這些資料統整一併仔細來看，卻發現不但無法釐清這三個名詞各別的意思，也無法理解它們之間的異同性。所以嚴格來說，「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個名詞，在清代時用詞上到底真正所指為何？它們與使用者的關係以及所配戴的目的又為何？這一連串的質問，其實長期以來一直都沒有個明確的答案。研究者嘗試從一般人所忽略的文學素材為著眼，選擇了「描述力」與「敘事力」較為強的章回小說做為探究的線索，試圖為「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個名詞的定位找尋出一些新的看法。經由大量蒐集清代經典章回小說的過程，最後篩選出四十部符合本次研究所設定的對象，經逐一檢核每一部小說的內容之後，最後發現兩項重要的結論:（一）清代章回小說中出現「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個詞句，其用語完全受因於使用者「性別」的這項因素而來定奪的。本研究藉由四十部小說中出現「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」字眼的162句文字內容歸結來看，確知清代時期的作者，他們在書寫這三個詞句的用詞上與使用者「性別」的關係，確實是直接且互為因果的關係。（二）透過清代章回小說大量文本內容的解讀，讓我們理解到當時的作者藉由「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個詞句的書寫，所描述的重點目的，在受因於使用者「性別」不同的前提之下，而出現明顯的差異。當出現在男士身上時，重點都集中在「放置納物」的實用功能，主要是強調用途的目的。然而當出現在女性身上時則不同，除了將重點聚焦在物件樣貌的形容，以及外觀美感的描述之外，甚至還會藉助這些詞句拿來做為「言情、煽情」的憑藉物，而成為作者在建構「情色性愛」劇情時的一項重要媒介。

關鍵字

中華傳統服飾 ； 清代章回小說 ； 肚兜 ； 兜肚 ； 抹胸

並列摘要

We can easily obtain many descriptions of ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂ when we review the literatures about Qing Dynasty. When we lay all descriptions before us and carefully check these phrases, we are unable to specify the meanings of these phrases and we are unable to differentiate among them, either. Seriously, what did ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂ mean in Qing Dynasty when people talked about them? What is the relationship between users and them? And why did people wear them? There are many questions about these phrases. Yet, all questions remain unanswered up until today. Starting with the literary data overlooked by most people, the author chose the highly descriptive and narrative long novels with epic summaries as clues to search new thoughts on ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂, attempting to find out how these phrases have been positioned. A large number of long novels with epic summaries written in Qing Dynasty were examined. Then, forty long novels were chosen because they conformed to the hypotheses constructed by this study. After forty long novels were carefully examined, two important facts were found and are presented as conclusions: (1) In the long novels, how these phrases ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂ were used depends on user's ＂gender. After carefully examining 162 sentences containing ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops＂ in forty long novels, this study found that the user's ＂gender＂ determined how these phrases were used. Users with different genders used these three phrases in different ways. There is a direct relationship - cause and effect - between user's gender and the use of these three phrases. (2) After carefully reading all contents of the long novels, this study understood what the long novel writers tried to describe by using the phrases ＂belly wrap＂, ＂undergarment covering chest and abdomen＂ and ＂tube tops.＂ Different ＂gender＂ 2 resulted in different descriptions. When the long novels talked about men, the authors focused on the practical function of ＂storage＂, stressing the application and purpose. When the long novels talked about women, the authors focused on the shape of objects with emphasis on the beauty revealed by the objects, using these phrases to imply ＂romance and affection＂ or construct the plot of ＂sexual desire and pornography.

並列關鍵字

Traditional Chinese costumes ； Qing Dynasty's long novels with epic summaries ； Belly wrap ； Undergarment covering chest and abdomen ； Tube tops