中國明代小說中對「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」名詞書寫描述之初探

A Rudimentary Exploration of the Written Descriptions from Novels of China's Ming Dynasty on the Words ＂Dudou＂, ＂Doudu＂, and ＂Muoxiong＂

葉立誠(Le-Chang Yeh)

《實踐設計學報》 12期 (2018/12) Pp. 52-64

摘要

在服飾專業領域中，尤其是針對一些具有歷史性且長期存在的「服飾専有名詞」，掌握其明確性與精準度，絕對是刻不容緩積極要面對的重要課題，因為唯有猶如基礎工程的「服飾專有名詞」越牢固，服飾專業領域的發展才有條件展現出具專業的水平。「服飾專有名詞」中，「肚兜」這個名詞對今日的華人世界而言，不論是海峽兩岸或是散居在海外的華人地區，大都不陌生也有一定程度的熟悉度，而且彼此對「肚兜」的樣貌，在印象上也都有相當一致的共通認知。然而依據目前一般專業的說法，普遍認為「肚兜」一詞，是有許多其他共同或共通的用語；甚至還呈現出：「明清時期『肚兜』一詞的概念，與現今我們所認知『肚兜』一詞的概念是相同」的觀點。研究者不禁好奇，若以「明代」為時代背景，「肚兜」和同被視為是共通的一些用語，在當時出現的情形如何？它們在當時彼此的用法或描述，真的都是相同的嗎？明代所稱的「肚兜」，與今日所認知的「肚兜」，它們在樣貌上真的是一樣的嗎？研究者在經過大量廣泛的蒐集明代經典小說，最後篩選出十二部，經逐一檢核每一部内容的書寫之後，終於發現有兩項重要的結論：（一）透過十二部明代經典小說，得知在書寫描述「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個名詞的樣貌，就「肚兜」、「兜肚」兩者而言，兩者在明代當時小說中所書寫描述的樣貌，是非常相似一致的，但針對「抹胸」一詞所書寫描述的樣貌，與「肚兜」、「兜肚」兩者的比較，則是有很大的差距。（二）透過大量小說的文本，以「肚兜」、「兜肚」、「抹胸」這三個名詞為例的探究，讓我們理解到服飾的專有名詞，其名稱是會隨著時代的演變而出現不一樣的意涵與概念的。這個結論讓我們在進行歷史性服飾的研究，得到一個重要的啟示，那就是「千萬不能因為過往史料出現一些與今日相同的服飾名詞，就直接認為兩者在意涵與樣貌上必然是同樣的推論，一定要更加審慎考證以免陷入錯誤的認知中」。

關鍵字

中華傳統服飾 ； 明代經典小說 ； 服飾專有名詞 ； 肚兜 ； 兜肚 ； 抹胸

並列摘要

The field of garment profession demands clear and precise definitions, particularly some of the ＂garment proper nouns＂ that have long existed and have historical significance. This is an important issue that we should not delay in exploring, due to the fact that the development of garment, as a field of profession, can only reach expert level when ＂garment proper nouns＂ gain solid definitions. In a sense, garment proper nouns are the fundamental infrastructure of the garment profession. When it comes to ＂Dudou＂(belly wrap)- one of the garment proper nouns- all ethnic Chinese, no matter if they are from the Mainland or from Taiwan, or from other parts of the world, must be no stranger to it, and are to a certain degree familiar with it. Most of them have quite consistent impressions on what a ＂Dudou＂ looks like. However, according to common expert claims nowadays, ＂Dudou＂ as a garment can be associated with other proper nouns as well. Some even make the claim that ＂the concept of 'Dudou' during Ming and Qing Dynasties is equivalent to modern definitions of 'Dudou'＂. This makes us wonder what would have been the actual state of such word usage during the ＂Ming Dynasty＂- and not just how people used the word ＂Dudou＂, but also the other words that are associated with the same garment. From an extensive collection of classic novels from the Ming Dynasty, we picked out final twelve works. By examining the content of each work, we reached two vital conclusions: (1) These twelve classic novels from the Ming Dynasty offer us a glimpse into how the authors described ＂Dudou＂, ＂Doudu＂, and ＂Muoxiong＂; while the descriptions of ＂Dudou＂ and ＂Doudu＂ in the novels are extremely similar, descriptions of ＂Muoxiong＂ (chest wrap) are quite different from the other two. (2) The analysis of ＂Dudou＂, ＂Doudu＂, and ＂Muoxiong＂ from the novel texts reveals that the concepts of certain garment proper nouns evolve with time. The important lesson here is that when we do research on historical garments, by no means should we take for granted that a garment in the past is the same, both in definition and in appearance, as its equivalent modern garment simply because the names are the same. We must examine carefully to avoid misunderstanding.

並列關鍵字

Chinese traditional garment ； classic novels from the Ming Dynasty ； garment proper nouns ； Dudou ； Doudu ； Muoxiong