含神經醯胺與卵磷脂化妝品對皮膚保濕與彈性的功效評估

Functional assay of ceramide and lecithin containing cosmetics on skin hydration and elasticity

劉易鑫(Yih-Sin Liu) ； 詹錦豐(Chin-Feng Chan)

《弘光學報》 63期 (2011/06) Pp. 14-24

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201106.63.02

摘要

本研究以含卵磷脂結合神經醯胺的化妝品測試其對皮膚的保濕能力及皮膚彈性的功效。有16位受測者參與為期四週的試驗，使用的儀器為Courage + Khazaka公司的多功能皮膚檢測儀 (Multi ProbeAdapter MPA)，皮膚水分含量在使用產品後30-60分鐘短期的保濕效果的測定顯示，使用前皮膚水分含量為35.14±1.15%，使用後提升至38.03±0.94%，有顯著的差異 (p＜0.01)。長期保濕效果至使用後第四週與控制組比較，也有顯著的差異 (p＜0.05)。使用後短期皮膚經皮水分散失測定值，使用前為13.14±3.23，使用後降低至11.39±2.71，雖無顯著差異，但仍有部份改善的效果。使用後第一週至第三週皮膚經皮水分散失測定值都持續有顯著的降低 (p＜0.05)。對於皮膚真皮層彈力測定顯示：無論短期或使用至第四週，對皮膚的彈性無顯著的改善效果。本研究顯示：卵磷脂結合神經醯胺對皮膚的保濕修復具有顯著效果，對於皮膚的彈性可能需更長的時間研究才能有較明確的結論。

關鍵字

神經醯胺 ； 卵磷脂 ； 皮膚經皮水分散失

並列摘要

This study evaluated lecithin and ceramide containing cosmetics on the effects of skin hydration and elasticity. Sixteen volunteers participated in this four-week trial. The multi-functional skin detector (Multi Probe Adapter MPA, Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH) was used for skin functional measurement. Skin water content was significantly improved and the values increased from 35.14 ± 1.15% to 38.03 ± 0.94% (p ＜0.01) in 30 min after used. In the fourth week treatment the water content 66.25 (p ＜0.05), was also significantly improved as compared to control group values of 54.91. Short-term use of the lecithin and ceramide had some improvements on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) but was not statistically significant and the values of untreated and treated skin were 13.14 ± 3.23 and 11.39 ± 2.71, respectively. In the longterm treatment, TEWL values were continuously decreased significantly (p ＜0.05) form the first week treatment to the third week treatment. There was no significant improvement on dermis elasticity whether in short-term or long-term treatment. This study indicated that lecithin with ceramide had significant effect on skin hydration and skin barrier repair, but the effect on skin elasticity may take longer treatment to have more definite conclusion.

並列關鍵字

ceramide ； lecithin ； transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

參考文獻

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