微脂粒包覆維生素C之經皮傳輸與功效性評估

Transdermal Property and Efficacy Evaluation of Liposomal Ascorbic Acid

賴渝宣(Yu-Hsuan Lai) ； \d陳明仁(Ming-Jen Chen) ； \d徐照程(Jaw-Cherng Hsu)

《弘光學報》 74期 (2014/12) Pp. 39-50

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201412.74.03

摘要

本研究利用高壓均質技術製備包覆維生素C之微脂粒，並探討微脂粒包覆維生素C對於經皮傳輸與包覆率。且自製微脂粒包覆維生素C之精華液配方，評估化妝品功效性之影響，研究分別以invitro及in vivo進行。研究結果顯示包覆率68.2%並使用Franz-type擴散槽的in vitro經皮傳輸結果顯示，包覆維生素C之微脂粒(AL)之穿透率（Steady-state Flux）為52.90μg/cm2．hr，較單單使用未包覆維生素C之對照組25.91μg /cm2．hr快，1小時後的穿透比率分別為施藥原始量之0.37%與0.18%。可知有包覆維生素C之微脂粒確實能促進經皮吸收穿透率。使用黑紅色素測定儀，in vivo探討AL微脂粒對美白功效影響的實驗結果顯示，在10位受試者使用1小時的短效測試中，配方A(實驗組)使黑色素量減少14.41 %，至試驗第七天，肌膚黑色素量則下降至19.00 %，而B(空白組)之皮膚黑色素於使用前後無差異，短期測試顯示添加AL微脂粒具美白功效潛力。

關鍵字

維生素C ； 微脂粒 ； 包覆率 ； 經皮傳輸 ； 功效性評估

並列摘要

In the study, novel liposomal ascorbic acid (AL liposome) and its preparation were successfully designed and prepared by high-pressure homogenization method. The ascorbic acid entrapment efficiency (EE %) and transdermal characteristics of liposomal ascorbic acid were investigated, and in vivo whitening efficacy of its preparation was also evaluated. The transdermal delivery profiles were determined in vitro using a Franz-type diffusion cell and porcine skin membrane. The results showed higher transdermal flux （52.90μg/cm2. hr）for AL liposome compared with un-capsulated ascorbic acid（25.91μg / cm2. hr）, shorter lag time was also observed. In a short-term human skin cosmetic efficacy test of liposomal ascorbic acid preparation. After 7 days treatment, the melanin content reduced by 19.0 %, and control group (un-capsulated ascorbic acid preparation) showed no effect after treatment. Based on the assessment results summarized above, liposomal ascorbic acid showed high skin penetration ability and short-term whitening efficacy in this study, which could be useful for novel whitening ingredients in cosmetic preparations.

並列關鍵字

Vitamin C, Liposomes, Entrapment efficiency ； In vitro transdermal delivery ； Efficacy Evaluation

參考文獻

Roberts, M. S. (1997). Targeted drug delivery to the skin and deeper tissues: role of physiology, solute structure and disease. Clinical and experimental pharmacology and physiology, 24 (11), 874-879.

Bos, J. D., & Meinardi, M. M. (2000). The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Experimental dermatology, 9 (3), 165-169.

Machet, L., & Boucaud, A. (2002). Phonophoresis: efficiency, mechanisms and skin tolerance. International journal of pharmaceutics, 243 (1), 1-15.

Joshi, A., & Raje, J. (2002). Sonicated transdermal drug transport. Journal of controlled release, 83 (1), 13-22.

Curdy, C., Kalia, Y. N., & Guy, R. H. (2001). Non invasive assessment of the effects of iontophoresis on human skin in vivo. Journal of pharmacy and pharmacology, 53 (6), 769-777.