減鹼配方對於冷製手工皂特性之影響

The efficacy assessment for reducing amount of alkaline formula on cold process handmade soap

張素幸(Su-Hsing Chang) ； 歐明秋(Ming-Chiu Ou)

《弘光學報》 77期 (2016/03) Pp. 155-166

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201603.77.12

摘要

本研究以減鹼配方設計，即添加不足皂化價之鹼量來製作手工皂，並針對其特性進行評估，選用坊間常用三種油脂：椰子油3、棕櫚油3、橄欖油4為固定配方，並以減鹼率0%、5%、10%、15%、20%來製作手工皂，分別於第0週、第2週、第4週、第6週、第8週測試五款不同減鹼配方手工皂之硬度值、pH值、重量減少、清潔力，最後於第8週後測試此五款皂之起泡力及泡沫穩定性。試驗結果顯示；硬度值隨著晾皂時間增長而逐漸增加，以未減鹼配方之皂體硬度最大；pH值在第0週均在10.0以上，隨著時間增長而有下降的趨勢，以未減鹼配方皂體pH值下降速度最為緩慢，減鹼10%者可於晾皂兩週後pH值可達10.0以下，未減鹼者需14週後方可降低至10.0以下；重量變化從第0週之後都呈現下降趨勢，全數減少率均在10%以內；藉由Ross-Miles裝置進行起泡力及泡沫的穩定性測試，試驗結果顯示兩者與減鹼率無直接關聯，但其起泡力佳，且泡沫穩定性皆維持於0.8以上；最後經由表面張力測試手工皂之清潔力，結果發現五種減鹼皂方臨界微胞濃度(CMC)皆相近，即表示減鹼率20%以內並不影響成皂之清潔力。結論減鹼率多寡對於手工皂之硬度值和pH值會有影響，若以pH值為晾皂熟成之考量，則減鹼10%以上之皂方可縮短手工皂熟成之時間，由於其皂方油脂比例固定，該手工皂之起泡力、泡沫穩定性及清潔力不受減鹼率之影響。

關鍵字

手工皂 ； 減鹼 ； 清潔力 ； 起泡力

並列摘要

The soap base contained in handmade soap is likely to irritate sensitive skin. Alkali reduction formula affects different greases differently and imposes different levels of influence on various properties of the finished soaps. If alkali is reduced excessively, the cleaning power decreases and soaps are unable to be shaped. This study attempted to assess the properties of handmade soaps made with alkali reduction formula. The author produced handmade soaps with an amount of alkali less than what was normally needed for handmade soaps. Three ingredients were added to the handmade soaps, namely, coconut oil 3, palm oil 3, and olive oil 4. Handmade soaps were produced with 5 alkali reduction rates - 0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%, respectively. In week 0, week 2, week 4, week 6, and week 8, the author tested the handmade soaps produced with 5 alkali reduction rates to find out their hardness values, pH values, weight loss, and detergency. Eight weeks later, the author tested 5 handmade soaps again to find out their foaming power and foam stability. According to the test results, hardness value increased when soap-drying period was longer; the soap without alkali reduction had the highest hardness value; all soaps' pH values were higher than 10.0 in week 0; pH values started to decrease as time passed by; the pH value of soap without alkali reduction decreased slowest; the pH value of soap with 10% reduction of alkali dropped below 10 after two weeks; the pH value of soap without alkali reduction dropped below 10 after 8 weeks; all soaps started to lose weight from week 0; and all soaps lost less than 10% of weight. Foaming power and form stability were tested using Ross-Miles device. The test results revealed that alkali reduction had nothing to do with foaming power and form stability at all, yet both foaming power and foam stability were higher than 0.8. Finally, handmade soap's detergency was examined using surface tension test. The test results indicated that 5 alkali-reduced soaps revealed critical micelle concentrations (CMC) similar to one another. In other words, when alkali reduction rate is less than 20%, the soap's detergency remains unchanged. In conclusion, different alkali reduction rate affects handmade soap's hardness value and pH value differently. When pH value is used as a decisive factor to determine the maturation of soap, 10% of alkali reduction rate or higher is sufficient to shorten the maturation process. With a constant percentage of grease contained in the handmade soap, the soap's foaming power, form stability, and detergency remain unchanged even though alkali is reduced.

並列關鍵字

handmade soap ； alkali reduction ； detergency ； foaming power

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