化妝品常用油脂擴散度及順滑度與感官評估的相關性分析

Correlation Analysis of Physical Spreading and Smoothing Properties of Cosmetic Emollients with Sensory Evaluation

許凱婷(Kai-Ting Hsu) ； 李珮琪(Pei-Chi Lee) ； 詹錦豐(Chin-Feng Chan)

《弘光學報》 81期 (2018/03) Pp. 125-134

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201803_(81).0009

摘要

油脂在化妝品中佔有重要的角色，常會影響產品的稠度及觸感，例如：擴散度(spreadability)、順滑度(smoothness)等。到目前為止化妝品的觸感評估並沒有客觀且制式的方法，本研究擬藉由分析化妝品常用的36種油脂，建立一套客觀且具一致性的感官分析評估方法，並依據評估結果建立感官分析的數據庫。研究將使用18.5公分及4.25公分濾紙評估油脂的物理性擴散度及順滑度，依結果數值將油脂加以分級，並與感官分析評估值作回歸分析，比較兩者之間的相關性。依測試結果，擴散度可分為11個等級；順滑度可分為5個等級。實驗得知物理性擴散度與感官分析兩者之間具有很好的相關性(相關係數r：0.92～0.95；決定係數 r^2：0.85～0.92)，但順滑度的相關性不高，可能與大部分油脂的摩擦係數(coefficient of friction)太近且偏低，導致感官分析不易辨別。總言之，本研究已初步建立一套客觀且具一致性的感官分析評估方法及感官分析的數據庫。

關鍵字

油脂 ； 擴散度 ； 順滑度 ； 感官評估 ； 摩擦係數

並列摘要

Emollients play an important role in cosmetics. They often affect the viscosity and sensory of products such as spreadability and smoothness. So far, there is no objective or standard method for evaluating the sensation of cosmetics. This study analyzed physical properties of 36 emollients commonly used in cosmetics. The other aim of this study is to establish an objective, consistency and high correlation method and database for sensory analysis of cosmetics. The physical spreadability and smoothness of emollients were evaluated using 18.5 cm and 4.25 cm filter paper. The values of spreadability and smoothness were rated and correlated to the results of sensory evaluation by regression analysis. The results showed that spreadability could be rated into 11 grades and smoothness could be rated into 5 grades. There is good correlation between physical spreadability and sensory analysis (coefficient of correlation r: 0.92~0.95; coefficient of determination r^2: 0.85~0.92). The correlation between smoothness and coefficient of friction is not good that may be owing to the most of coefficient of friction of Emollients were too close and low, leading to sensory analysis is not easy to be distinguished. In general, this study has established an objective and consistency method and database for spreadability sensory analysis.

並列關鍵字

emollients ； spreadability ； sensory analysis ； smoothness ； friction coefficient

參考文獻

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