十二種美白原料抑制酪胺酸酶能力之研究

A Study of the Inhibition Tyrosinase Ability of Twelve Kinds of Whitening Materials

呂佳樺(Chia-Hua Lu) ； 楊尚軒(Shang-Hsuan Yang) ； 薛祥明(Hsiang-Ming Hsueh) ； 陳玟君(Wen-Chun Chen) ； 李奕增(Yi-Tseng Li) ； 易光輝(Kuang-Hway Yih) ； 王曉芬(Hsiao-Fen Wang)

《弘光學報》 86期 (2020/09) Pp. 77-88

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.202009_(86).0006

摘要

以七種不同實驗條件評估市售產品常見之十二種美白原料：氨甲環酸、杏仁酸、菸鹼醯胺、DL-泛醇、熊果苷、麴酸、對苯二酚、抗壞血酸、檸檬酸、水楊酸、阿魏酸、二丁基羥基甲苯，抑制酪胺酸酶之功效。實驗設計以DMSO或PBS溶劑、二種樣品濃度、二種Tween 20濃度及有無添加Tween 20之七種實驗條件，結果顯示以DMSO為溶劑，樣品濃度於1,000ppm或500ppm時，依序加入酪胺酸酶、L-DOPA（內含2000ppm Tween 20），二種實驗條件能明顯區別前五名原料之抑制率。在1,000ppm及500ppm二種樣品濃度時，抑制效果前五名依序為：抗壞血酸（100.00 ± 0.00 %、100.00± 0.00 %）＞麴酸（91.33 ± 0.21 %、83.35 ± 0.33 %）＞二丁基羥基甲苯（23.84 ± 3.26 %、20.32 ±0.91 %）＞水楊酸（16.93 ± 3.98 %、9.36 ± 1.01 %）＞檸檬酸（8.66 ± 3.25 %、7.26 ± 1.68 %）。在添加Tween 20可溶化劑之條件下，可測得油溶性成分二丁基羥基甲苯的抑制率，但此七種實驗條件，皆無法有效檢測氨甲環酸、杏仁酸、菸鹼醯胺、DL-泛醇、熊果苷、對苯二酚及阿魏酸抑制酪胺酸酶之數值，顯示其美白機制與酪胺酸酶關聯性較低。由實驗條件結果可知，當實驗以DMSO為溶劑並加入Tween20時，能明顯區別前五名原料之抑制率，同時可檢測水溶與油溶性原料抑制酪胺酸酶的能力。

關鍵字

美白 ； 酪胺酸酶 ； 抗壞血酸 ； 麴酸 ； 二丁基羥基甲苯

並列摘要

Seven experimental conditions were used to evaluate the inhibition tyrosinase ability of twelve kinds of commercially available whitening materials: tranexamic acid, DL-mandelic acid, nicotinamide, D-panthenol, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, L-ascorbic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, ferulic acid, and butylated hydroxytoluene. Those include DMSO or PBS solvent, two sample concentrations, two Tween 20 concentrations, and the addition or absence of Tween 20. The results showed that in the two experimental conditions: DMSO is used as the solvent and the sample concentration is 1,000 ppm or 500 ppm, and then adding tyrosinase and L-DOPA, it can be obviously distinguished the top five inhibitory abilities. At two sample concentrations of 1,000 ppm and 500 ppm, the top five inhibitory abilities are in the order; L-ascorbic acid (100.00 ± 0.00 %, 100.00 ± 0.00 %) ＞ kojic acid (91.33 ± 0.21 %, 83.35 ± 0.33 %) ＞ butylated hydroxytoluene (23.84 ± 3.26 %, 20.32 ± 0.91 %) ＞ salicylic acid (16.93 ± 3.98 %, 9.36 ± 1.01 %) ＞ citric acid (8.66 ± 3.25 %, 7.26 ± 1.68 %). In the condition of adding Tween 20 as a solubilizer, the inhibitory ability of the oil-soluble component butylated hydroxytoluene can be measured. Under the seven experimental conditions, none of DL-mandelic acid, nicotinamide, D-panthenol, arbutin, hydroquinone, ferulic acid, and tranexamic acid can be effectively detected the value of inhibitory abilities. It may have a low correlation with their whitening ability and tyrosinase inhibition. Based on the results of the above seven experimental conditions, it can be seen that in the presence of DMSO and Tween 20, not only the top five inhibitory abilities of the whitening materials can be clearly distinguished, but also the inhibitory abilities of water-soluble and oil-soluble whitening materials can be detected in the same time.

並列關鍵字

whitening ； tyrosinase ； ascorbic acid ； kojic acid ； Butylated hydroxytoluene

參考文獻

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