From Shark Fin to Original Shark Dishes: Reconstruction from Tsunami and Promotion of Food Tourism in Kesennuma, Northeastern Japan

Jun AKAMINE

《CHINESE FOOD CULTURE in EUROPE FRENCH FOOD CULTURE in ASIA.》 第14屆 (2015/10) Pp. 25-1-25-18

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.14.2015.19

並列摘要

Japan is one of the major shark fishing countries in the world, About 80 to 90 percent of total shark caught by Japanese shark fishing boats are landed at Kesennuma Fishing Port in northeastern Japan, the same area that was struck by a devastating tsunami on March 11, 2011. Before the tsunami tragedy, the shark fin business was Kesennuma City's leading industry-people in Kesennuma City were proud of its high quality shark fin products. Aside from shark fins exports, local food industries associations developed lots of shark fin dishes such as shark fin ramen (soup noodle), shark fin sushi, shark fin confection, etc., which attracted gourmet tourist to Kesennuma City, Since the mid 1980s Kesennuma City put its city planning in food and foodways and in 2003, became the first municipality in Japan that was officially decleared a Slow Food City. With the effort of relevant parties making good use of land and sea products in and around Kesennuma, food tourism has developed into one of the most important industries in Kesennuma City. However Kesennuma currently faces two difficulties: the effects of the tsunami and a global campaign shark fin consumption. During its reconstruction process, Kesennuma City comes up with a new identity ＂shark town＂. Fisheries stakeholders aim at transparent and ＂sustainable＂ shark fisheries and they applied for MSC (Marine Stewardship Council)'s eco-label in April 2014. Tourists to Kesennuma City can enjoy several shark dishes, ranging from French, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, most of them newly invented. Visitors can learn about the latest ecology of sharks at the City's Shark Museum newly renovated in July 2014. Beautiful and durable shark leather goods are available. This paper will first review the development of shark fisheries in Kesennuma City with relation to modernization of fisheries in the late 19^(th) century. The second part of the paper will explore how people in Kesennuma deal with the effects of the tsunami and the global campaign against shark fin fisheries and its consumption. Finally, the paper will analyze the relationship between food tourism and the slow food movement in Kesennuma City.