明代文人集團的飲茶生活

Tea-Drinking Lifestyles Among the Ming Dynasty Literate Groups

吳智和(Chih-Ho Wu)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第1屆 (1993/07) Pp. 279-307

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1993.01.14

摘要

明人好結社集，詩社、文社、黨社、舉業社等，大江南北所在皆是，老人有社，士子也有社，由明初以至明末，始終盛行不衰。這些眾多的社集，就構成性質互異的文人集團。這些文人集團中，不乏精於茶事的人士，因此精緻的飲茶風尚流行於當時。本文擬從以下幾個方向，探討彼時文人集團的飲茶生活。一、文人集團的園亭茶會。明代文人飲茶風尚與宋代有別，他們從以往城市的茶館中退出，而轉入於居家的園亭中，這一退轉一方面造成茶館的衰微，一方面提升飲茶的層次。明人園亭的社集，通常推定一人作主，皆有社約的規範。特別是悠遊林下，玩賞書畫，焚香時花的「純文人」集團，也就是「清客型」的文人，尤精於茗事。而人文薈萃的江南地區，文人集團的茶藝風尚，最其有典範的作用。他們各有亭園之勝，喫茶處甚至有稱「茗醉蘆」，或名「松泉齋」圖書鼎彝、竹爐茶竈，一應俱全，客至品茗，酬唱往還為事。二、文人集間的山寺茶會。江南地帶，是明代的主要茶區之一，而此區的著名山寺，又正好是全國名茶的主要產地，如長洲虎邱山的虎邱茶、宜興羅岕山的羅岕茶、長興顧渚山的顧渚茶、餘杭徑山的徑山茶、南京攝山的攝山茶，以及無錫惠山泉、虎邱的三泉、攝山的四泉等，天地間的茶、泉名品，鍾薈於此，於是招徠四方社集的文人集團，甚至在山區結社，而山寺的茶會留下龐大的茶事詩文，並問涉僧家精於茶事的珍貴記錄。山寺的茶會，可以說是文人園亭茶會的延伸。三、文人集團的隱寄茶人。文人集團中，有一部分的人士，因淡泊於科場，又精於茗事，退隱至茶山築圍以居，一生與茶結緣。遊蹤所至載茶具以隨，或留連於所善社集同好間，攜茗汲泉，以茶事會友，這是隱寄茶人。另有一批文人，以茶為性情的寄託，是為寄懷茶人，他們是推動一代茶風的關鍵人物。宋代社會流行鬥茶，而明代社集則崇尚會茶，雖然取向有別，嗜茶之風則同。而明人以嗜茶隱於茶鄉，又皆善茶法，較宋人尤為好事。四、文人集團的飲茶方式。唐、宋以來的傳統飲茶方式，至明代而有所更革與創新，漸趨於合理化、簡樸化與品味化，探契於飲茶之正道。明人飲茶方式經文人集團推廣創新，值得注意之處有四：（一）崇尚簡易而自然的葉茶法，得茶之真昧；（二）沖泡飲法的習尚，逐漸取代傳統煮飲方式；（三）妙青法製綠茶的盛行，一時新品茗送出，開拓茶類的多元化時代；（四）壺器替代茶盞，與紫砂器的興起，並漸以小為尚。

並列摘要

People of the Ming dynasty tended towards social groups. Groups were founed according to common interests in poetry, literature, political persuasion, business and existed both north and south of the Yang-tse river. Old people had their own groups; scholars had groups: from the start of the Ming down to its fall, the popularity of these societies never declined. From these populous social groups were formed literati groups that varied widely in nature. These groups did not lack for tea connoisseurs and, as a result, tea drinking became quite fashionable. This paper examines the tea drinking lifestyle of the Ming literati from various perspectives. I. Garden and pavilion tea houses The tea drinking styles of the Ming literati differed from the those of the Song, moving from tea rooms in the city to gardens and pavilions of private homes. This on the one hand led to the decline of tea rooms, and on the other, raised the importance of tea-drinking. Ming garden and pavilion social groups often appointed one person to take charge, as there existed a full se t of rules and norms. Especially knowledgeable of tea were the ＂pure literati＂, enamored of walks in the forest, careful appraisal of artwork, incense burning and flower cultivation. The tea drinking and artistic styles of the literati in the flourishing region south of the river were the most exemplary of the time. Every garden or pavilion tea house had its own special characteristics and tea drinking areas were given such names as ＂Ming-tsuei lu＂ (cottage of tea intoxication) or ＂Sung - ch'üen chai＂ (pine spring room). Vessels with scholarly eng ravings, bamboo tea burners, and all other neccesary implements, tasting of famous teas and exchanging of poems and writings were all a part of this tea drinking lifestyle. II. Mountain tea houses The area south of the Yang-tse was one of the major tea region s of the Ming dynasty. The northern section was famous for its mountain temples and its teas, the names of which were know n across China: Huch'iu tea from Huch'iu Mountain in ch'ungchou, Luochi e tea from Ihsin Luochie Mountain, Ch'anghsin Kuch e Mountain' s Kuche tea, Chin Mountain tea from Yühang Chin Mountain, Nanking She Mountain's She Mountain tea. There were also famous springs: Wu Hsi Hwei Mountain sp ring, the three springs of Hu'chiu Mountain, the four springs of She Mountain, and more. The world's best known teas and springs were all here, bringing literati from all corners of China to the region to establish societies. In these mountain temples they left voluminous poetry and prose literature, some valuable portion s of which touched on various areas of tea expertise. Mountain tea houses could be said to be an extension of garden and pavillion tea houses. ill. Mountain tea retreats Among the literati groups, there existed a certain portion who, taking a lighter view of the civil service examinations, retreated into the mountains to build tea gardens where they could carry out a lifelong association with the art of tea-drinking. Bringing tea paraphernalia along when traveling was a way to find friends: a bit of famous tea and some reknowned spring water could provide one with a resting place at the home of a fellow connoisseur. In Sung dynast y society, competitive tea drinking was favored, while during the Ming, a more communal atmosphere was the trend. Despite this difference, the goal was the same: to taste and to savor. The people of the Ming performed their tea tasting in the region where it was grown and tended to pay more attention to methods of cultivation than their Sung predecessors. IV. Tea drinking styles Tea drinking traditions of the T'ang and sung dynasties underwent change and innovation during the Ming becoming more rational, simplistic and tasteful, profoundly affecting the direction of tea-drinking. Of the innovation s in tea-drinking styles made by the Ming literati groups, the four most worth noting include: 1) the upholding of simple and natural tea leafing methods in order to obtain the tea's true flavor; 2) infusion gradually replaced simmering in tea preparation; 3) popularity of the green frying method for preparing green tea . At this time a number of new teas appeared, greatly increasing the varieties available; 4) shallow tea containers were replaced by tea pots, and with the increasing interest in purple sand pottery, smaller sized implements were increasingly favored.