全球成衣產業結構變遷及其對貿易商影響之研究

成衣業是最古老的工業之一，也是發展工業化過程的重要基礎工業。全球成衣業在進口配額政策廢止後，各國廠商開始調整了生產布局，而金融海嘯的發生更加速了這樣的變化。而傳統零售商由於電商帶來的衝擊，對於成本的控管更加嚴苛，在這樣的情況下，貿易商受到來自零售商與製造商的雙重影響，產業去中間化的趨勢越來越明顯。本研究希望探討產業結構變遷的因素並分析這樣的現象對貿易商帶來的影響。本研究以成衣業在全球供應鏈之形成與轉移進行分析，其次分析以台灣為代表之成衣製造商進行垂直整合的策略布局及其對營運績效的影響，最後則細部探討成衣採購流程的具體環節。在產業結構分析上主要分成兩個部分，首先針對零售市場進行分析，並探討零售商採購行為的轉變主因；再者則從製造商的觀點討論其進行垂直整合布局的原因，作為支持成衣供應鏈結構變遷的關鍵。在供應鏈上則以交易成本理論為基礎，比較零售商與製造商在成衣採購上的關鍵活動所能提供的附加價值，在製造商能耐提升後是否產生了消長，並證明貿易商式微的原因。在研究個案上，本研究選擇台灣的儒鴻和聚陽以及香港的利豐集團進行個案探討。本研究發現在生產供應端的去中間化現象已發生，成衣製造商所提供之服務版圖擴大並涵蓋了過去貿易商所能提供的服務範圍，使貿易商所提供的附加價值降低。據此，本研究建議，貿易商除了持續深化既有服務外，也需要開拓市場並結合新科技以延伸其服務內容，以利豐為例，其透過物聯網與3D 等新興技術試圖打造一數位平台使交易雙方的訊息完全同步，而且也同時積極開發非美國的市場。從需求端來看，利豐也從品牌與零售通路著手，除了協助歐美品牌進入中國市場，也與中國的零售龍頭共同打造新零售店面，透過資料分析與物聯網技術的應用，除了增加購物效率外，也能藉由數據分析以提供新的附加價值給客戶。

關鍵字

交易成本理論；垂直整合；成衣製造商；貿易商

並列摘要

Apparel Industry is one of the oldest industries in history and apparel production has been regarded as a springboard for national development. After quota’s phase-out in apparel industry, the manufacturers started to adjust their production allocation and the financial crisis in 2008 has also accelerated the change. On the other side, traditional retailers are under the pressure from the E-Commerce to control the operation costs. Under the circumstances, the traders face the double impacts from retailers and manufacturers, and the trend of disintermediation is getting obvious. The studie attempts to discuss the factors of industry structure change and analyze the impact to traders due to the phenomenon. The studie surveyed on the formation and transformation of global supply chains in apparel industry firstly and secondly analyzed the apparel manufacturers’ conduct for vertical integration and its influences to operation performance, taking the manufacturers in Taiwan as examples. Finally, the studie discussed the process during apparel procurement. The industry structure analysis is separated into 2 parts, firstly will analyze the change of the retailing market and to survey the primary reason for the change of procurement behaviors of retailers. And for the second part, the studie will discuss the reasons for the vertical integration actions as the perspective of the manufacturers and therefore to prove the structural change of supply chain in apparel industry. In the scope of supply chain, the studie took the transaction cost theory as the basis to compare the added value that retailers and manufacturers can provide on the key activities during the apparel procurement process and to discuss the growth and decline within them and thereby prove the causes of the wane of traders. The studie adopted only the secondary data from industry but also chose 3 cases to study, including ECLAT TEXTILE, Makalot Industrial from Taiwan and Li & Fung from Hong Kong. Our study found that the disintermediation of global apparel supply chain has occurred, the scope of services that apparel manufacturers provide has covered the scope that trades provided and made the traders’ added value declined. We further suggest that traders need not only to cultivate the current business but also to expand new markets and extend the services through the combination with new technologies. Taking Li & Fung as an example, Li & Fung attempts to build a new digital platform to connect both customers and suppliers that can synchronize information. Besides, Li & Fung also expand non-American market to spread the risk. From the market angle, Li & Fung targets on brands development and retailing channels, not only to help western brands to entry Chinese market but also set up partnerships with leading retailers in China to establish new retail stores. With data analysis and related applications of IoT, Li & Fung not only increases the efficiency of shopping but also provides insights to clients through data analysis and therefore increase its added value.