再現「小籠包」：日本旅遊文本中「台灣」的飲食觀光論述與消費認同

近年來，台灣旅遊在日本逐漸盛行，飲食是吸引日本觀光客來台旅遊的最主要動機，而其中最具有代表性的食物莫過於非「小籠包」莫屬。小籠包固然已經成為代表台灣美食的一個重要元素，但其在台灣的發展脈絡，甚至是其作為台灣飲食象徵的始末，仍然甚少被討論。本研究選擇以日本人所認為台灣飲食之最主要的代表象徵－－小籠包來作為分析對象，希望以此解釋日本人對於台灣料理的印象與論述。本研究藉由收集三種不同的日本旅遊文本，以及聯合資料庫的新聞與專欄，分析其中對於小籠包再現與敘事。有關再現「小籠包」的分析，事實上即是解構日本旅遊文本中對於小籠包的印象建構，討論形成「來台灣就是要吃小籠包」論述之背景，以及小籠包是如何被塑造成一種台灣飲食的象徵。本研究認為，鼎泰豐的出現影響了日本旅遊文本對於小籠包的再現與敘事。不論是強調職人精神與服務態度，以及規制了一套有關於小籠包特殊的品嚐方式，鼎泰豐都讓吃小籠包這件事變得複雜與精緻化。根源於中國飲食文化，再加上一種想像的、符號化的日本特質，形成了一種對於台灣料理的全新想像，使小籠包不再只是一種中華料理而已，而是能夠代表台灣的「台灣料理」。

關鍵字

再現；小籠包；飲食觀光；消費認同；日本旅遊文本

並列摘要

Traveling to Taiwan is a growing trend and Xiaolongbao has been the most representative Taiwanese food that attracts Japanese tourists to visit Taiwan. Xiaolongbao, an established image of Taiwanese gourmet, has rarely been discussed about its development in the country and its history of becoming the symbol of Taiwanese cuisine. The study chooses Xiaolongbao, the symbol of Taiwanese cuisine in Japanese’s eye, as the target object to explain Japanese’s impressions and sayings of Taiwanese gourmet. The current study collects three kinds of Japanese travel texts, and news articles and columns from United Daily News, to analyze the representation and narrative of Xiaolongbao. The representation of Xiaolongbao is in fact to deconstruct the impression construction of Xiaolongbao appeared in Japanese travel text, and how it was shaped as a symbol of Taiwanese food. The study finds that Din Tai Fung greatly affects the representation and narrative of Xiaolongbao written in Japanese travel texts. Din Tai Fung emphasizes the syokunin spirit and attitude, and regulates a set of special ways to taste it, so that makes eating Xiaolongbao a more complicated and delicate matter. Rooted in Chinese eating culture while added with an imagery, symbolic Japanese feature, Xiaolongbao is way more than a dish of Oriental food, but it forms a brand new image of Taiwanese cuisine that represents the country.