從香奈兒產品象徵意涵探討自由、平等、博愛

本論文試圖從香奈兒品牌產品象徵意涵的角度，進行品牌產品分析。以脈絡化的途徑呈現歐洲社會風尚裡，女性服裝造型究竟存在何種問題，導致女性服裝造型需要以巨大的社會變革方可產生改變？在巨大的社會變革中，如何引發可可•香奈兒從1910年起建立香奈兒品牌，透過設計出多項女性服飾產品，以劃時代的眼光傳達自身對女性服裝造型的見解，造就女性服裝造型的革新面貌？在多項具備自二十世紀以來富有革新面貌的香奈兒品牌產品中，其象徵意涵是否具備「自由」、「平等」、「博愛」之語彙？第一部分，探討歐洲社會在女性服裝造型的發展上歷經多樣的風尚所帶來的服裝造型樣貌，解析歐洲女性服裝造型長期以來遭遇何種社會價值體系所賦予的規則，引發女性服裝造型對於女體的限制與束縛。第二部分，聚焦二十世紀的社會變革引發的思想體制如何影響女性服裝造型，產生新興的流行趨勢，在趨勢下彰顯出可可．香奈兒的觀點與美學，導致香奈兒品牌誕生。本部分優先探討二十世紀女性服裝造型元素的開創者—保羅．普瓦烈，對於女性服飾的觀點確實影響日後二十世紀的女性流行服飾趨勢，間接地影響的可可．香奈兒的理念。然而，保羅．普瓦烈為何無法像可可．香奈兒發揮恆久性的影響力？整理香奈兒品牌發展歷程，歸納出品牌在女性服裝造型上具有恆久性的影響力，乃因於品牌中存在本文所探討之「自由」、「平等」、「博愛」三項概念。第三部分，延續已發現的「自由」、「平等」、「博愛」三項概念，進行品牌產品分析。界定好「自由」、「平等」、「博愛」之定義後，將篩選品牌內值得關注的產品象徵意涵進行歸類，透析可可．香奈兒設計產品時所傳達的語彙，深入探討並歸納香奈兒品牌產品象徵意涵與本文所界定之「自由」、「平等」、「博愛」有何種關聯性。最後，分享在完成整體的研究與分析後，所得著的觀點與啟示，遂而提出發想與建議。

關鍵字

香奈兒；自由；平等；博愛；服裝

並列摘要

The paper attempts to analyze brand products from the perspective of the symbolic meaning of Chanel products.In a contextualized way to present European social fashion, what kind of problems exist in women's costume styles, leading to women's costume styles need to undergo intense social changes, and they changed. In the fierce social changes, how to trigger Coco Chanel to establish the Chanel brand since 1910, through the design of plenty of women's collection products, with an epoch-making vision to convey their insights on women's costume styling, to create an innovative look of female costume styling? In many Chanel products with an innovative look since the 20th century, does the symbolic meaning have the vocabulary of "liberty", "equality" and "fraternity"? The first part, discuss the appearance of costume styles brought by European society in the development of women's costume styles through various fashions, and analyze the rules given by the social value system that European women's costume styles have encountered for a long time, led to the restrictions and constraints of the women's body. The second part ,focus on how the ideological system triggered by the social changes in the 20th century has influenced women's costume styling, which has created a new popular trend, and this trend highlighted Coco Chanel's views and aesthetics, led to the birth of the Chanel brand finally. In this part, we will mention to the creator of the 20th century modern women's costume-- designer Paul Poiret. Poiret's opinions on women's costumes made affect the trend of women's fashion in the 20th century, and indirectly affects Coco Chanel's concept of the fashion design. However, Why Paul Poiret can't be like Coco Chanel makes a perpetual influence? This part will organize the development of the Chanel brand and conclude that Chanel brand has a perpetual influence on women's costume styling is due to the existence of the 3 concepts : "liberty", "equality" and "fraternity" . The third part, continue to the three concepts of "liberty", "equality" and "fraternity" that have been discovered, and conduct brand product analysis.After defining the definitions of "liberty", "equality", and "fraternity", the symbolic meanings of the products that are worthy of attention in the screening brand are classified,dialysis Coco Chanel ’s vocabulary when designing products,explore in depth and summarize how the symbolic meaning of Chanel brand products is related to the definitions of "freedom", "equality" and "fraternity" in this article. Finally, after sharing the overall research and analysis, give the own views and the enlightenments, offer the ideas and suggestions.