我衣如我是─台灣青少年外觀社會化歷程之研究

服飾外觀是個體的一部分，也是社會互動的門面，由服飾外觀所帶來的生活經驗會回應個體自我概念的發展。許多研究已經證實服飾外觀是自我概念的具象展現，而透過服飾溝通所獲得的社會回應也會影響自我概念的建構，過去的文獻著墨於探索影響服飾外觀展現的變項，較少專注於服飾外觀展演與自我間的動態關係。是以，本研究從符號互動論的角度，以質性深度訪談的方式，探討灣青少年在制服文化下，外觀知覺和管理的經驗，檢視青少年外觀社會化的歷程是如何發展？本研究共邀請5男7女等12位受訪者，年齡分布於18－22歲，受訪者的專業背景共涵蓋文史、教育、理工、藝術、社工、衛教等系所。研究結果發現個體外觀社會化歷程大致可以分為萌芽探索期和穩定期。萌芽探索期主要的特徵是個體對服飾外觀的知覺提高，開始會思考與探索自我、服飾外觀與社會互動之間的關係；穩定期則是個體能依據不同場域，穿出與自己合適的服飾外觀，且感到自在。萌芽探索期和穩定期並沒有明顯的界線，不同個體從萌芽探索期到穩定期的發展時間也有長短差異或是兩時期有反覆出現的狀況。而穿著制服會影響青少年自我外觀管理的動機，青少年的主要照顧者，特別是家中女性長輩對其外觀自我知覺與管理的態度影響很大，而同儕之間的互動是青少年外觀社會化歷程的重要影響因素。總體來說，青少年外觀社會化歷程與自我概念相關，但兩者並非平行發展。研究建議學校及家庭可以站在輔導的角色，給予青少年學習外觀管理的空間與機會，並運用相關經驗及資源協助青少年在外觀的社會化與自我概念的發展。

關鍵字

制服；服飾；自我；家庭；同儕

並列摘要

Appearace is part of oneself, and it is also considered as a means of nonverbal communication. Therefore, the life experiences related to appearance will shape an individual’s self-concept. Many studies have proven that appearance and self correlate with each other but most of them are quantitative research. In addition, the past literatures in Taiwan put much emphasis on the link between physical appearance and self; however, clothing can be regarded as an index of socialization and it is closely connected with the self. The purpose of this study is to explore how adolescents in Taiwan develop appearance socialization. The study is based on grouding theory and is conducted by in-depth interview. 12 interviewees come from different background, including literature, history, education, science, art and social worker and so on. The results of this study showed that the appearance socialization of Taiwan’s adolescents can be divided into two periods, the explorational period and the stationary period, but there is no obvious boundary between the two periods. This study found that socialization agency is a main factor that triggers one’s appearance socialization, but the uniform regulations weaken adolescents’ motivation of appearance self-perception and management. And, female caretakers and peers play important roles in the appearance socialization of adolescents. Besides, the interviewees still have gender stereotypes, and their expectation of their appearance is affected by the gender stereortype, but the interviewees won’t judge others appearances based on gender bias. Overall, appearance and self-concept correlate with eac other but the process of appearance socialization and the development of self-concept are not synchronized. This research suggests that schools and families can undertake the role of counseling and guiding teenagers to feel how their appearance and self affect each other and assist teenagers to develop their self-concepts through the process of appearance socialization.