後現代女性主義觀點應用於時尚廣告視覺符號分析

A Study of Exploring The Visual Semiotics of Print Fashion Ad Campaign from The Aspects of Post-Modern Feminism

潘品璇(Pin-Hsuan Pan)

指導教授 ： 連德仁

國立臺中科技大學/設計學院/商業設計系碩士班/碩士(2014年)

https://doi.org/10.6826/NUTC.2014.00010

摘要

隨著後現代社會的興起，後現代女性主義提供女性以及社會的是另一種女性新思維，是一種個人所選擇的生活態度以及思考方式。當消費品從物品轉變成思想及生活感受式的無形商品，女性自主的形象經常以廣告的形式出現，並廣泛應用於各項產品。難以想像地，後現代女性主義除了在性別越界與酷兒理論等現實性別議題中有所貢獻，在資本主義社會的商業模式下具有更龐大的影響力。特別是在充斥著女性千變萬化的裝扮、商品與無窮慾望的時尚產業裡。當今流行文化與時尚產業可以說具有濃厚的後現代女性主義特徵，包括後現代這個時代特性所具有的雙面性與弔詭，其內涵意義遠比所謂流行女性主義、商品女性主義還要深遠得多，可以說是女性主義所具有的多面向發展進程。
本研究以文獻分析法探討後現代女性主義內涵以及其發展脈絡，並瞭解文化消費社會下流行文化之表現與後現代女性再現關係。嘗試將後現代女性主義概念轉化為圖像符號分析要素，用以分析那些經由圖像來營造、詮釋出某些難以言喻的氣氛與捉摸不定的魅力所在。以近五年（2009-2013）國際十大時裝品牌平面廣告為文本，經由文本分析歸納出「扭轉視線--你在看我嗎？可以再靠近一點」、「自戀型態之多元分裂的自我」、「後現代陰性力學—empower feminine」、「在出神與入戲之間的裝扮遊走」等四種當代平面時尚廣告景觀，所描繪的不僅僅是時尚產業的宣傳面向，而是後現代女性在當今社會活動所衍伸出的文化產物，同時也是後現代消費社會下的時代輪廓。最後藉由後現代女性主義的多元論述與發展面向，突顯在當代社會中的後現代女性商業價值作用以及作為流行文化的反射性工具。進而提出後現代女性主義建構當代時尚美學概念之可能性建議。轉化其應用範圍作延續性展，增添不同的詮釋角度與應用價值，為後現代女性主義概念思考、延伸更多的可能性。

關鍵字

後現代女性主義 ； 平面時尚廣告 ； 符號學 ； 視覺符號

並列摘要

With the development of post-modern society, post-modern feminism turns to concerns self existence and self value. To follow one’s original instinct and desire as the main purpose, post-modern feminism shows diversification in many ways and presents the diversity and finds its value in different genders. The new idea that post-modern feminism offers is a type of living or a way to think and what one chose to believe. When consumer products transform from an object to an experience or a type of living, women’s figure of independent frequently presented by advertisements and applied on variety products. it is hard to imagine that post-feminism has an more extensive influence in this new models of business in post-modern Society besides its contribution to crossing gender and queer theory. especially in the fashion industry which is full of ever changing beauty, style, idea and infinite women desire. nowadays pop culture and fashion industry can be said to have a strong postmodern feminist characteristics, including paradox and diversity. The rich connotation and profundity has made a development process of feminism.

In this study, it adopts documentation analysis by discussing the ideas of post-modern feminism and its connection with the study of cultural consumption and pop culture. With the thesis statement, the researcher collates and analyzes the idea of post-modern feminism into four main points. Through the annotation and generalization, the four main ideas of post-modern feminism turn into the element of visual design in this research. and try to capture and interpret the images that made of a certain indescribable atmosphere and elusive charm from fashion ad campaign. By discussion and analysis in the aspects of post-modernity feminism, I convert and generalize the print fashion ad campaigns into four characters: the reverse of male gaze, the narcissism self-conscious, empower feminine and gender performativity.

The research is dedicated to depicting contemporary fashion ad campaigns with another point of view, and give a clear image of fashion ad current situation as well as the appearance of post-modern Consumer society. Furthermore, this research expects to let post-modern feminism enhance and glorify in different viewpoint by discussion and generalization. By convert and analysis the idea, the researcher tries to gives a new interpretation of post-modern feminism in order to connect visual design for continuing development and creation.

並列關鍵字

Post-Modern Feminism ； fashion ad campaign ； Semiology ； visual symbol

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