新藝術慕夏意象之服裝設計創作

新藝術（Art Nouveau）起源於十九世紀末、二十世紀初的大眾文化，依循大自然元素轉化結構表現，將植物與生物給予浪漫包覆詮釋，經典表現形式採波浪流動線條，更賦予生命與活力。本創作研究採文本分析法，探討十九世紀新藝術商業設計始祖，也是卓越畫家代表之一慕夏（Alphonse Mucha），其裝飾精神與樣式，細膩繁複且寓意深奧的象徵結構，以花卉、植物元素塑造唯美浪漫的慕夏風格與現今多元文化相互交融，交織豐富生命力，訂為研究創作設計靈感來源與圖紋設計樣式之基礎，更別於傳統慕夏繁複構成風格思維，最後藉新藝術慕夏之「寶石系列四連畫作」延伸設計，秉持慕夏手繪精神應用於流行女裝印花布設計，擷取慕夏植物花卉、光輪圖紋精神為概念傳遞主軸，匯入電腦繪圖Photoshop四方連續構成圖紋排版，突破傳統印花模式，進行熱昇華數位印製，清新呈現慕夏浪漫氛圍；創作技法輔以立體剪裁，應用褶飾、壓縫、層疊、柔性副料等，增添慕夏意象柔性感知。創作研究完成六套慕夏意象時尚女裝作品，創作主要表現為傳統手繪質感與現代數位科技的交融，呈現慕夏意象服裝與數位印花創作的展新生命，形塑烏托邦神話般的慕夏意象服裝與藝術空間，實踐「構想導向」的時尚產業概念，透過模擬虛幻慕夏意象表述美麗神話，意象構想交匯風格價值，引發夢想與渴望的信仰，實踐藝術生活化及生活藝術化詮釋慕夏意象的深層思維。

關鍵字

慕夏；新藝術；服飾；花卉；數位印花

並列摘要

The Art Nouveau is a public culture since the early of the 20th century and the end of the 19th century. That is according to the element of nature transforming into a representation structually, which give plants and biological having romantic expression. The classical representation form is adopted waving flow lines that got the more powerful activity and life. In this paper that adopt the textual analysis, which investigate the Art Nouveau commerce design of earliest ancestor who is one of excellent painter in 19th century – Alphonse Mucha. He used the decorative spirit and styles that delicate, complicated allegorical and esoteric symbolic structure uses the element of flowers, plants to create the style of Mucha’s romantically aesthetic and interaction of modern multi-cltures, interleaving what a rich activity in life. There are the source of inspiration of design for creative research and basic pattern design, and then subvert traditional on Mucha’s complicated for thinking of a constituted style. In laste, extended design is according to the Art Nouveau of Mucha’s “the four precious stones”. We apply to design of printed cloth on popular dress, which catch up a concept on the spirit of Mucha’s plants, flowers and pattern of nimbus to deliver the main ideal. Based on layout of constituted quartet consecutive pattern import to the patinted software of Photoshop. That is breaking the traditional printed mode. That process the heat sublimation for digital printing. It is clearly to represent the Mucha’s romantical situation. The skill of creation is to assist with stereo clipping, to apply for ruche, pressing seam, stack of lay and soft secondary material, etc. There are increased soft perceptions for Mucha’s image. After we had done six fashion lady’s colths for Mucha’s image in our creative research. In our creative main idea is a fusion of the traditional hand painting quality and modern digital technology. There are to represent a whole new life for the cloths of Mucha’s image and digital printing creativity. It likely formed the utopia fabulous of Mucha’s image clothing and art space, and to practice the idea-oriented in a concept of the fashion industry. The expression of beauty myth is through the simulative and unreal Mucha’s image. The interaction of style value is through the construct of imagination. It is leading to the beliefs in dreams and desires. To practice the artistic life or living artistically is to explain the more deep of Mucha’s image.