劃界?跨界?--桃園縣火車站周邊印尼飲食店之探討

Demarcating or Crossing Border?--A study on Indonesian Eating Houses along Train Stations of Taoyuan County

黃惠麟(Hui-Lin Huang)

指導教授 ： 林開忠

國立暨南國際大學/人文學院/東南亞研究所/碩士(2011年)

https://doi.org/10.6837/NCNU.2011.00170

摘要

過去國內學界關於東南亞風味餐飲店的研究，或是從族裔經濟與文化經濟等巨觀的論述來探討移民的謀生策略與族裔認同，或是採移民所具備的各類型資本之微觀的視角來分析其創業歷程，本研究嘗試兼納此兩大研究範疇，針對桃園縣火車站周邊之印尼飲食店做專文探討。
本研究以位於桃園縣各大火車站周邊的7間印尼飲食店做個案分析，研究結果顯示，這些印尼裔經營者所擁有之資本多源自於家庭或同族裔內部，較缺乏來自臺灣主流族裔的資源挹注，進而影響其跨越族群界線之經驗。而華人身分的經營者佔了高達七分之六的比例，凸顯特定族裔之社會文化結構將影響移民個人的創業傾向。此外，經營者在採取「劃界」經營或是「跨界」發展的抉擇上，還會受制於父權結構的影響，「性別」仍在某種程度上左右了移民創業的發展。另外值得一提的是，臺、印料理在飲食口味方面的懸殊差異而不易混雜，此一客觀條件上的限制，亦阻礙了印尼裔經營者「跨界」築夢。
整體而言，桃園縣火車站周邊的印尼飲食店之印尼裔經營者雖有人基於商業利益之考量，試圖以「文化經濟」的模式「跨界」經營，但礙於此區早已形成的特定族裔群聚消費空間地景，再加上供應的餐點是口味上迥異於臺灣菜的印尼家鄉味，又受限於金融資本與某些特定的人力資本、社會資本等不足，最終只能在臺灣接待社會裡採取「劃界」經營的「族裔經濟」模式來謀生。

關鍵字

印尼飲食店 ； 移民 ； 劃界 ； 跨界 ； 族裔經濟

並列摘要

In the past, studies on Southeast Asian flavor eating houses conducted by academics at home focused either on the exploration of migrants’ livelihood strategy and ethnic identity from the macroscopic view of ethnic and cultural economy, or on the analysis of the process of their starting businesses from the microscopic angle of the capital they had. In this study, attempts were made to include these two categories in the exploration of the Indonesian eating houses around the train stations in Taoyuan County.
The study is conducted on seven Indonesian eating houses locate around each major train station in Taoyuan County. The results show that, most of the Indonesian operators’ capital came from either their families or their clans, and only very few were obtained from the mainstream ethnic groups in Taiwan, which has hindered their operations from crossing the ethnic border. Among those eating house owners, ethnic Chinese people accounted for as high as six sevenths, highlighting the influence of the social structure of specific ethnicities on individual migrant’s employment orientation. Besides, patriarchal structure could also affect those operators’ choice between two operations models: “demarcating-the-border operation” or “crossing-the-border operation”. “Gender” also had influence on migrants’ business development. What’s worth mentioning was that due to the big difference in flavor, it was very difficult for Taiwanese and Indonesian foods to be blended together, and this has also prevented those Indonesian eatery operators from crossing the ethnic border.
Overall speaking, although the operators of the Indonesian eateries around the train stations in Taoyuan County had tried to adopt “cultural economy” model to cross this ethnic border, they could only settle for ethnic economy’s operation model of “demarcating-the-border” due to the fact that the areas where their eating houses were located had already become a consumption space for specific ethnic communities, coupled with other factors such as the big difference between Indonesian and Taiwanese foods and business operators’ limited financial, human and social capital.

並列關鍵字

Indonesian eating house ； immigrantion ； demarcating-the-border operation ； crossing-the-border operation ； ethnic economy

參考文獻

中文部分：

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