山居歲月－新竹客家飲食文化及體現

The Transformation of the Hakka Dietary Culture in Hsinchu

鄧之卿(Chih-Ching Teng)

《餐旅暨家政學刊》 6卷4期 (2009/12) Pp. 353-377

https://doi.org/10.6572/JHHE.6(4).4

摘要

本文試圖以民族誌的觀點，透過參與觀察及深度訪談當地資深客庄人士，探討新竹客家飲食文化的深層意涵。文本資料採質性分析的程序，將新竹地區客家飲食的文化特色歸納出五項範疇：1.由貧瘠的山居生活探討「地域性的影響」。2.由客家飲食烹調本色來體現「客家飲食的實用特色」。3.由文化的意象來傳達「客家飲食的表達面」。4.由禮儀與習俗反應「特殊場合的客家飲食意涵」。5.由飲食再造來展現「客家飲食新風貌」。本文並透過現代客家飲食新舊之間的傳遞，反思客家飲食傳承與創新的文化意義，以及未來客家飲食文化的保存與發展。

關鍵字

客家 ； 飲食 ； 文化

並列摘要

The goal of our research is to explore the significance of the Hakka dietary culture from an ethnographic perspective. We employed participant observation and in-depth interview methods to collect data from local informants. Based on qualitative analysis we developed five categories to interpret the Hakka Dietary Culture in Hsinchu: (1) Explore regional influences from the aspect of living in a barren region. (2) Show the pragmatic characteristics of Hakka cuisine using the essence of Hakka cooking. (3) Express the Hakka diet through cultural image. (4) The reflection of etiquette and customs of through Hakka dietary culture for different occasions. (5) The creation of new kinds of Hakka cuisine. Finally, the significance of the modern Hakka dietary culture is reflective of the cultural transformation from tradition to modern. We also discuss the future of conservation and development of the Hakka dietary culture.

並列關鍵字

Hakka ； diet culture ； image

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