國民政府遷台後台北江浙菜發展歷史觀察（1949-2011）

本研究探究自國民政府播遷來台後江浙菜的發展歷程，因為臺北是江浙餐廳主要的集中城市，故以臺北為研究範疇，採用文獻分析與深度訪談兩種研究方法進行。由於「江浙菜」的定義頗為分歧，研究先定義出「江浙菜」一詞的範圍與定義，接著分析報章雜誌等平面媒體中所呈現的「江浙菜」報導主題分類及形象。論文第四章則將國民政府遷台後至今分為1949-1971、1972-1991與1992-2011三個階段，討論台北地區江浙餐廳在不同階段的發展歷程。研究結果發現，台灣媒體中的飲食書寫，無論是報紙、飲食專業雜誌及美食書籍，在江浙菜的書寫內容上均呈現相當的一致性，且賦予江浙菜「富貴」、「精緻」的形象，懂得吃江浙菜也是經常被描繪為能晉身美食饕客的入門門檻。而江浙菜的發展在不同歷史階段也有所不同：1949至1971年間，臺北的江浙菜餐廳多是由外省籍廚師主燴的小館、餐廳，環境簡陋但口味道地，分布範圍多集中於台北車站、西門町一帶。1972至1991年間，由於臺灣經濟成長迅速，大型酒樓及私廚小菜館等不同類型的餐廳多元林立，餐廳集中地也擴張到了臺北東區、永康街等區域，但在此同時，粵菜、台菜等其他菜系及異國料理的興起也讓江浙菜不再是中菜界獨秀的菜系。1992至2011年間，早年開設的江浙餐館多已凋零或轉型，此時期的一大特色就是上海熱的興起，許多標榜上海菜的餐廳紛紛開幕，吸引消費者的目光，再度為江浙菜系注入新的強心針。

關鍵字

江浙菜；菜系；飲食雜誌；飲食新聞；飲食變遷

並列摘要

This study discusses the development of restaurant of Jiangzhe cuisine in Taipei from 1949 to 2011. Through analyzing literature and in-depth interview, this study examines the definition of “Jiangzhe cuisine” in Taiwan first, investigating how this culinary category is understood. Then the study explores the image and characteristics of Jiangzhe cuisine in print media, including gourmet magazines, gourmet reports on newspapers and gourmet books, suggesting that the Jiangzhe cuisine enjoys a consistent media image throughut the past sixty years. Jiangzhe cuisine has been widely described as delicate dishes enjoyed by gourmets and wealthy people. Based on the literature analysis, the development of Jiangzhe cuisine in Taipei can be divided into three periods: 1949-1971, 1972-1991, and 1992-2011. In the first phase, the Jiangzhe restaurants were characterized by Mainlander chefs, authentic traditional Jiangzhe dishes, and usually with simple decoration. Most of these restaurants were established around the Taipei Main Station and Ximen district. From 1972 to 1991, due to the rapid economic growth, Jiangzhe restaurants expanded to the eastern area, Youngkang Street and other areas of Taipei. However, in the mean while, the flourish of Cantonese cuisine and Taiwanese cuisine made Jiangzhe cuisine no longer the only one distinguished cuisine among Chinese cuisines. From 1992 to 2011, due to the rising enthusiasm for Shanghai, lots of restaurants characterized by Shanghai cuisine opened. These restaurants attracted consumers and made Jiangzhe cuisine more prosperous.