台灣米酒入菜的社會脈絡觀察─食譜文本探析

Mapping the Social Contexts of Taiwan Rice Wine in Cooking: A Recipe-narrated Investigation

李如琪(Ju Chi Lee)

指導教授 ： 蘇恆安

國立高雄餐旅大學/廚藝學院/台灣飲食文化產業研究所/碩士(2011年)

https://doi.org/10.6825/NKUHT.2011.00031

摘要

在中國傳統「醫食同源」的觀念薰陶下，米酒在產婦及年長者調養身體、節氣應補等滋養物的應用上，甚為普遍。除此之外，米酒更於傳統中國飲食文化與日治期間料理文化的影響下，逐漸成為家庭烹煮菜肴的必備材料，且也被賦予了烹調佐料的意義。此種烹調口味的發展，特別在經由媒體的烹飪知識教育傳播後，更使米酒儼然成為大眾味覺的致癮調料。這種消費現象由我國加入WTO致米酒價格暴漲後，所引發的諸多恐慌、惡意囤積及假米酒事件看來，便可獲得印證。至今，米酒所引發的社會輿論，雖頻有所聞，但米酒入菜的文化形成，卻少有學術專著論及。因此，本研究目的乃據國人傳統飲食文化觀念，與族群飲食融合之概念，來探究臺灣米酒入菜烹調之歷史過程。研究方法上，本文係以日治時期至90年代後與米酒相關的史料和各式食譜記錄，作為文獻參考依據與分析工具。研究發現社會經濟的成長、家政教育的普及，食譜文本的刊登，以及媒體的推廣皆為構築米酒入菜文化的外在因素，而較深層的內在因素，主要是環扣於不同族群之間飲食烹調習慣的融合，以及人民對米酒風味的認同與形塑。

關鍵字

米酒 ； 飲食文化 ； 族群 ； 食譜文本 ； 臺灣料理

並列摘要

Inherited from the traditional concept of “food being the medicine and vice versa” in China, using rice wine as an essence of health supplement has been a common practice for pregnant women and elders in Taiwan’s society. Moreover, due to the cultural influences from traditional Chinese cooking and Japanese cooking in its colonial period, rice wine has gradually become an indispensable seasoning in simple dishes with significant importance. The tasting development of cooking with rice wine has consequently turned rice wine into a nearly addicted seasoning for all people, especially through the spread of cooking knowledge and practices by mass media. The consumption phenomenon can be witnessed by and since the new epoch of Taiwan’s accession to WTO. Since the price of rice wine soared up suddenly, the society was in great panic; people began to store rice wine intentionally and even produced fake rice wine. Nevertheless, although these rice wine incidents are still mentioned nowadays, little academic research was conducted in terms of the trends of cooking with rice wine. Therefore, this research aims to depict the historical progression of cooking with rice wine based on food culture developed from Taiwan’s tradition and from a fusion of multi-ethnic cooking concepts. As for methodology, this research referred to a great deal of historical documents and cookbooks since the Japanese colonial period and used them the as an analytical tool. The research found exterior reasons enhancing cooking with rice wine are economic growth, proliferation of home cooking education, and mass communications of cooking recipes by publications and mass media. On the other hand, the interior reasons are the hybridization of multi-ethnic cooking habits and an identity developed from the practices of cooking with rice wine.

並列關鍵字

Taiwan cuisine ； food culture ； recipe texts ； rice wine ； ethnics

參考文獻

魏喦壽、茅秀生（1952）。臺灣之發酵工業。臺北：臺灣銀行經濟研究室。

李貴榮（2000）。臺灣菜的演進與發展。中國飲食文化基金會會訊，7(3)，28-35。

巫仁恕（2006）。明清飲食文化中的感官演化與品味塑造—以飲膳書籍與食譜為中心的探討。中國飲食文化，20(2)， 45-95。

林挺生（1964）。大同製鋼機械股份有限公司第廿六屆第一次臨時股東大會紀錄。大同月刊，46(9)，5-6。

河口充勇（2007）。臺灣料理的混成性－以欣葉餐廳為例。中華飲食文化基金會會訊，13(2)，34-40；