戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化：以金門為例

Battlefield Life, Soldier's Consumption and Dietary Culture: A Case Study of Quemoy, Taiwan

江柏煒(Bo-Wei Chiang)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 269-294

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.14

摘要

1949年以降，金門從閩南傳統社會變成國共對峙、世界冷戰的前線基地。在長達43年的軍事統治期間，除地方社會與空間地景被高度地軍事化外，亦因軍人消費經濟的蓬勃產生了微型產業及其文化，飲食即為其中之一。為了迎合不同籍貫的駐軍，金門在原有閩南料理的基礎上，發展出了廣東粥、牛肉大餐、麵食（刀削麵、炒泡麵、拌麵）、金門高梁酒等戰地風味餐。1992年解除戰地政務後，這些風味餐進一步發展成地方旅遊的新資源。本文擬以田野調查的史料，探究金門戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化的關係。首先以實際的案例，討論大量的、長期的駐軍於金門所產生的庶民飲食之演變，以及這些料理在地化的過程。接著，分析金門高梁酒生產的歷史，並從戰地氛圍與男子氣慨塑造（modeling manhood）的象徵意義，進一步理解高梁酒如何受到軍隊的歡迎，以及國家（軍事政權）對於戰地社會飲酒的矛盾情結。最後，進一步分析飲食這種非物質性的戰地遺產，如何成為一種新的地域特色與旅遊產業。

關鍵字

飲食文化史 ； 冷戰遺產 ； 地域文化 ； 金門

並列摘要

From 1949, Quemoy (also named Jinmen or Kinmen) became the battlefront between the warring Nationalists (Kuomintang) and Communists as well as the frontline between Cold War nations. Under military rule, social and ideological control suppressed the community power of traditional clans. But, because many soldier lived in this island, the economic power of soldier's consumption brought many small industries. One of famous industries was local dietary business. They combined the local cuisine with other provinces of mainland China, some hometowns of the army, and then developed some characteristic cuisine or beverage, like Cantonese porridge, beef cuisine, many kind of noodles, kaoliang liquor (sorghum liquor) etc. After 1992, the characteristic cuisine became some new tourist resources in local society. This paper will survey historical documents and oral materials, and try to analyze the relationship between battlefield life, soldier's consumption and dietary culture in Quemoy. First, I will discuss transformation of folk diet and their localization processes during the military period. Secondly, I will deal with a history of liquor brewery in Quemoy and analyze the symbolic meaning of modeling battlefield aura and manhood, and how does the kaoliang liquor become the army's affection and military authority how to manage it to avoid the disorder situation in case of excessive drinking. Finally, I point out those dietary culture of battlefield become a type of non-physical heritage in the post-war period, and how to develop a new type of locality and tourist industries.

並列關鍵字

history of dietary culture ； heritage of Cold War ； locality ； Quemoy

參考文獻

明陽思謙修(1987)。萬曆《泉州府志》。臺北:臺灣學生書局。

清懷蔭布修、黃任纂、郭賡武纂(2000)。乾隆《泉州府志》。上海:上海書店。

王明珂(1993)。集體歷史記憶與族群認同。當代。91，6-19。

王美媛(2007)。金門傳統飲食文化之研究(碩士論文)。銘傳大學應用中國文學系。

江柏煒(2007)。誰的戰爭歷史？金門戰史館的國族歷史vs.民間社會的集體記憶。民俗曲藝。156，85-155。