唐宋時期飲食結構與發展變化

Changes in the Chinese Diet During the Tang and Song Dynasties

陳偉明(Wei-Ming Chen)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第1屆 (1993/07) Pp. 309-324

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1993.01.15

摘要

所謂食物結構，實際上包括食物消費種類的構成及其構成比例。而在中國上古以至唐宋時期，由於歷史條件所限，缺乏更多具體的數字資料，對於需要作定量分析的食物種類構成比例，難能作出較為具體準確的說明，因此言唐宋時期的飲食結構，只能大體上圍繞食物的消費種類及某一時期的變化進行探討分析。古人對於飲食結構在理論上早有認識，《黃帝內經》〈素問篇〉中最早提出了「五谷為養、五果為助、五畜為益、五菜為充」的飲食保健養生理論，而實質也是中國古代飲食結構理論的最早總結，形象地表達了飲食生活中的主要食物種類及其作用。隨著社會經濟的發展，物質生活水平的提高，食物構成也不斷發展變化，但基本上始終是圍繞著穀、果、畜、菜的飲食結構範圍內的量的變化。唐宋時期，更是集古代飲食生活之大成，把傳統的飲食結構在理論與實踐的結合中不斷發展完善，使之更為具體、系統和完整，為中國古代傳統飲食結構的最終定型打下了重要基礎。此後，歷代基本不變，近世如是。

並列摘要

This paper examins the constitution of China's mediaeval diet, including its substantive make-up, and the vatio of its constitutive parts. Due to the lack of concrete quantitative data for the period up to the Tang an d Song dynasties, it is indeed difficult to attempt an accusate reconstruction on the basis of quantitative analysis. But for the Tang and Song dynasties, we can roughly touch upon the food consumption categories in general as well as enter into specific discuss ion and analysis of proportions in the die t. In theory, our ancestors had long had a fair knowledge of diet make-up, for in the Canon of Medicine by attribuced to the ancient emperor Huangdi, where, in the Chapter ＂Plain Questions＂ it said, The five grains are the main stable for nourishment; the five fruits are secondary foods; the five domestic fowls and animals are beneficial to the body; and the five vegetables constitute the supplementary die t. Such a Wholesome dietary theory was, in fact, the earliest conclusive stade-ment to survive on China's diet make-up. It put into words the major food categories and their functions in the dietary life. However, with social and economic development, the level of material life has risen and the diet make-up has undergone repeated changes. Still, the very basics have always been around the four 5's as stated in the ancient Canon of Medicine ascribed to the yellow Emperor. Changes, if any, are reflecked only in quantity. Chinese dietary culture reached maturity in the Tang and Song dynasties where all the ancient dietary accomplishments were amassed. The traditional diet make-up, in theory and in practice, had continued to improve, providing an important foundation for the comtitutional make-up and rectios of the Chinese diet. Henceforth, in each of the succeeding dynasties, the basics have continceed to remain unchanged to the present cleey.