中國料理及食物傳至日本之由來

The Introduction of Chinese Food to Japan

田中靜一(Tanaka Seiichi)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第1屆 (1993/07) Pp. 67-87

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1993.01.04

摘要

對日本飲食文化的形成有最深影響的是中國。日本的古辭書《倭名類聚抄》（約在公元九八一年）。醫學書《醫心方》（九四八年）中引用了中國早已散失的六朝時代的食經多篇。日本最古的中國菜的記錄是八○一年為歡送遣唐使之宴會的菜單。有「宴設之事──依漢法」的記載。到了唐朝，茶和唐果子（中國點心）也傳到了日本。清朝時，由江蘇、浙江、福建等地傳來道地的中國菜到日本九州的長崎市。但是由於肉類、油脂、香料等之不易取得，未能普及到長崎以外的地區。這時期，魚翅已在長崎製造。日本明治初年，即清朝末葉（一八六○年左右），廣東地方的菜肴傳來日本橫濱，成為今日中華街的起源。第二次大戰後，日本的中中國料理發展迅速，自一九四五至一九五五年間，由台灣、香港來日的廚師，在日本創業極為成功。今日在日本組成的唯一中國廚師團體「社團法人日本中國料理調理士會」的會長是中國人。

並列摘要

China is the country that has made the greatest impact on Japanese culinary culture. The Collect ions Cathering of Famous Japanese Food , a Japanese book written around 931 AD, and ＂Medical Intention and Pharmacopoeia＂, a medical text from 984 AD, both quot many Chinese classical recipes which had been scattered and lost early in the Six Dynasty period in China. The oldest record of Chinese food in Japan concerned the dishes served at a farewell dinner for a mission dispatched to the Tang dynasty court. The record stated, ＂The entire dinner was prepared in accordance with the Han method.＂ In the Ch'ing dynasty, there was wholescale importation of Chinese food to the cities of Nagasaki, Kyushu, from Chiang-su, Che-chiang and Fuchien. However, since there was a shortage of meat, fat and spices, Chinese food did not become popular execpt in Nagasaki. At this time, shark's fins were cooked in Nagasaki. About 1870, at the beginning of the Meiji period in Japan and towards the end of the Ch'ing dynasty in China, Chinese food was introduced to Yokohama from the Kung Tung area and this became the origin of the present day Chinatown After the end of the Second World War, the development of Chinese food in Japan was very rapid. From 1945 to 1955 many cooks from Taiwan and Hong Kong visited, resided and won great success in Japan. For instance, the president of the ＂Chinese Chefs Assiciation of Japan,＂ the only association of Chinese chefs presently in Japan, is Chinese.