越南台茶的移動性與領域化

本文利用裝配（assemblage）的取徑，說明在地性（localness）的意義，是裝配取徑中領域、去（再）領域化的過程。在地性意義組成與轉變的機制，即是台灣茶產業發展過程中的移動，帶動茶種與製茶技術等因子的組成、拆解與重組。 1980年代，台灣茶產業面臨轉型，國內的產量供不應求。此時台商結合政府的南進政策，帶動茶產業轉往越南發展。越南茶產業得以成為台灣茶產業的一部份，則是需要經過茶種物質性與製茶技術的調整，茶葉才得以賣回到台灣，以填補台灣茶不足的需求量。隨著境外的茶葉移動擴張，台灣開始反思在地性的意義。除了動員負面論述，強化本土與境外的分野之外，也利用產地標章、地方性的特色茶品，強化台灣的在地性意義。在這樣的脈絡下，越南台茶被台灣的在地性意義所排除，除了導致茶葉銷售困難、利潤減少，也間接導致越南茶葉因無資本的投入，品質更加低落，得以被科學檢驗技術驗出產地。為了重新帶動越南茶產業發展，部分台商透過移動，將茶葉帶往北越山區種植，期盼結合台灣高山茶論述，以回應台灣的在地性意義。於此同時，隨著飲料茶市場的崛起，帶給台商另一條發展的路徑。茶葉生產者透過不同的經營體系與製茶技術的變革，結合在越南珍珠奶茶店的台灣經營者的使用，以（珍珠奶）茶的製作技術與文化的獨特性，作為新的在地性宣稱。隨著越南珍珠奶茶店不斷地擴張，台灣珍珠奶茶的在地性宣稱受到威脅，台商處於重新建構在地性意義的焦慮。同時在台灣內部，也意識到使用的飲料茶原料，多是境外進口的，進而產生在地生產的焦慮。為了解決問題，台灣推動平地茶園復耕計畫，欲求重新建構在地生產的在地性意義。台灣與越南茶的爭議，主要是源於「在地性」的意義，並無一定的本質。在地性的意義，是在台灣茶產業發展過程中不斷變動的，同時這些變動，也反映台灣茶產業對於尋求何謂在地性的焦慮。

關鍵字

越南茶；在地性；裝配；移動性；領域化

並列摘要

In this paper, the assemblage approach is used to illustrate the meaning of localness, which is the process of territorialization, de-territorialization and re-territorialization. The mechanism of making the meaning of the localness assembled and transformed is the movement of the Taiwanese tea industry, which drives the heterogeneous elements such as tea and tea-making technologies assembled, dismantling and re- assembled In the 1980s, Taiwan's tea industry faced a transformation, cause domestic production was in short supply. In this situation, Taiwanese businessmen combined with the government's Southern Policy to divert the tea industry from Taiwan to Vietnam. In order to make the Vietnamese tea industry become a part of Taiwan's tea industry, it is necessary to adjust the materiality of tea and the technology of tea making in Vietnam, makes the tea can be sold back to Taiwan to fill the shortage of Taiwanese tea.With the expansion of abroad tea imported, Taiwan began to reflect on the significance of localness. In addition to mobilizing negative discourses and strengthening the distinction between local and abroad, it also uses the geographical indications and local specialty teas to strengthen Taiwan's localness significance. In this context, Vietnam's Taiwanese tea was ruled out by Taiwan's territorial significance. In addition to causing difficulties in tea sales and reduced profits, it also indirectly led to the lack of capital investment in Vietnamese tea, which makes the lower quality and could be verified its place of origin by scientific inspection techniques. In order to re-mobilize the Vietnamese tea industry, some Taiwanese businessmen brought the tea plants to North Vietnam’s high mountainous area, and hoped to combine Taiwan's discourse of high mountain tea to respond to Taiwan's localness meaning. At the same time, with the rise of the beverage tea market, it has brought another routes for Taiwanese businessmen to develop. Therefore, tea producers transform different management systems and tea-making technologies, and cooperate with the Taiwanese bubble tea shops in Vietnam. Using the uniqueness of the production technology and the culture of Taiwanese bubble tea as a new localness claim.With the continuous expansion of Vietnam's bubble tea shop, Taiwan use bubble tea as localness claims faced threat, that makes Taiwanese businessmen are in the anxiety of re-territorialization localness meaning. At the same time, Taiwan also realized that the tea used were mostly imported from abroad, which in turn caused anxiety in local production. In order to solve these problem, Taiwan promotes the re-cultivation plan of the flat tea garden, and wants to reconstruct the localness meaning is equal to local production. The controversy between Taiwan and Vietnamese tea is due to the meaning of "localness" has no certain essence. The meaning of localness is constantly changing during the development of Taiwanese tea industry. At the same time, these changes also reflect the anxiety of the Taiwanese tea industry in seeking what is localness.